Tide and Time
Hottest day of the year? Hot enough for me. Anything above about 23 degrees is I find oppressive but blue skies and dry feet cannot be knocked. An early start was warranted but deciding to add about five miles to get to Glynde rather than Berwick, was probably a mistake. The last 3 miles were murderous in the heat. All my drink went in about an hour and so lunch ar Litlington was very welcome.
A train for Newhaven can be found via Wivelsfield or Brighton and Lewes and in under an hour. It mightnot seem the most inspiring destination but that's all the more reason to go there along with those escaping to France via the ferry.
The walk starts At Newhaven Town station but you could begin at the harbour station, a bit further along I suppose. I was having difficulty deciding in which order to encompass the sea, the river and estuary but plumped for sea first.
Come out of the Station and head down Railway Road on the east side of the track. Railway becomes Clifton, becomes Beach. You'll see the footpath sign on the right side of the road and follow it. You cross the railway. The morning was an industrial bustle of sounds and sights. You can see the ferry terminus, the fort, Mill Creek and Seaford Head in the distance. You are on the England Coast Path. A little further on, cross the creek and head down to the sea. I realised that I was going to be walking into the morning sun for quite some time. This area leads to Tide Mills, the watermill itself having been built in 1761 and in use by the barges until 1883. Other more recent relics are described on route, until you reach the remnants of flint walls and the lost village. Continue towards Bishopstone Station before switching back at the signpost, on the path that takes you to the opposite side of Mill Creek, once again. This is both the Sussex Ouse Valley Way and part of the Vanguard Way.
Back to the harbour, take Norton Road to Eastside Park and go south again This might be unduly repetitive but take the path as it turns east and reaches the roundabout. I found this stretch a little overgrown and at one point I slipped on my bum on the narrow path.
A relief then to cross the road and go east into the Ouse Estuary Nature Reserve. At the eastern end, the path joins number 2 of the cycle network, going north alongside the the A259. Exit on the right side and backtrack on the road to take the drive of Foxhole Farm. Go right at the T and enter the field. Head for the gate, eastwards. Turn right towards Rookery Hill, the site of an Anglo-Saxon Cemetery, Bronze Age barrows and a trig point to bag with coastal views.
After a brief pause, head back and towards the adjacent woods. About half way along a footpath heads into it, very steeply. I was greeted with burdock and bramble as I descended. Once on the other side, continue in this direction and enter the sheep field. You'll see the spire of Bishopstone's church and head towards it. I was not able to access the cool interior of the very old St Andrew's but drank all my water in the churchyard and tried to cool down. Out through the lychgate and onto Bishopstone Road, join Silver Lane.
At its eastern end, leave the bridleway and take the footpath. Another brambly, nettley causeway was, thankfully, firm underfoot, on the side of East Blatchington. Hemmed in with the friendly buzz of bees and butterflies, I was considerably scratched up. After a time, the hedges give way to wheat fields and you join a bridleway, which in turn joins The Comp. I'd love to know more about the origins of this name as we encounter Comp Lane later.
Head southeast by the golf course. Another quite enclosed route, gives way to hills and views. The paragliders were above Cradle Hill. Pass Camp Hill, the trig lying on the golf course, and continue on this edge until Alfriston Road. I turned right and ascended the hill on the road. You can cross it and turn right on a permitted path to High and Over or Hindover Hill. I didn't know this. I also didn't know that there is a National Trust stile just opposite the car park. Having braved the road, I headed along to where a view emerged at the far end. I did not descend to the river here but returned to the junction and went northeast to where more paragliders were wheeling about. If you look back, you can see the Litlington White Horse on the slope. It looks not so impressive here as it does lower down. You can continuue in this line until you reach the banks of the Cuckmere. There looked to be some archeology going on towards the river. Follow the river to Litlington.
Here I crossed the footbridge, went north a little, then east and finally, right and right to reach the Plough and Harrow. Back to the original side of the river, go north, pass the Clergy House and enter Alfriston's St Andrew's Church. Head for the Hight Street and continue north. At the Market Cross, bear left onto West Street and stay on this. At the signpost, take the byway, the Old Coach Road, which also happens to be Comp Lane.
In my mind, I thought I'd push on to Glynde Station rather than Berwick as trains are more frequent. This turned out to be hot error. Suited to bikes, this lengthy diversion, now below the more breezy hill, was largely unshaded. I kept thinking my arms were burned but it was simply my sweating, salty arms throbbing because of my bramble wounds.
Finally, leave the byway and take the road and bridleway north until you see the footpath into the grounds of Firle. At the far end, go right through the white gate, next to the Lodge House. Take Firle Bostall to the A27 and the crossing, west of here, until yor reach Mill Lane. As I followed this to Glynde Station, every ounce of me was sweating and cursing. I boarded an icy train back via Lewes and Brighton.
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