Washed Out to Sea

BERWICK TO NEWHAVEN VIA FIRLE BEACON, SOUTHEASE AND THE OUSE 

The cloud hung low on this drizzly morning but I was not too fearful of a lack of view from the top of the hill. I'd quite enjoyed my last visit to Firle Beacon because, at less than ten metres visibility, the ancient landscape, dotted with tumuli, had been atmospheric and a comfort in my solitude. The grey shroud that brushed the Downs, neatly reflected the inexplicably low mood that rested on my shoulders.

Things did lift and brighten on this uncomplicated route, even if it is around 16 miles. I had intended to return in more of a straight line to Berwick but my feet had got a bit wet early and were a little sore. Enraging. Enjoy the simplicity, the elevation and the big guns at Newhaven. The walk is accessible via the Lewes line from Brighton or Wivelsfield station. Trains come from Seaford to go back to Lewes via Newhaven.

From Berwick Station, head south and then west on to the Cuckmere Pilgrim Path. True to form, this will take you to a string of churches in the area. We're not visting Berwick Church on this occasion, which has paintings by the Bloomsbury Group but after a while, you reach Selmeston Church. The Vicarage opposite is supposed to have been a bit of an inspiration for Lewis Carroll and Alice. Southwards, you pass the flinty facing of Flint House before crossing the A27. You have a choice of path just before Alciston but The path that follows the stream looked a bit unpassable with vegetation. You can probably walk round but I braved the curious horses to walk to the top of the road. Walk south to the church, dovecote and the medieval tithe barn. Alciston Court Farm are managing the fields for a balance with nature and you can read about it at the front door. Continue to the end of the road to meet the byway and Old Coach Road. Go right and then immediately left at the hedge. The footpath then rises up Bostall Hill onto the South Downs. The slopes ripple pleasantly below you. Continue south until you see the view on the other side and the signpost on the South Downs Way

Easy walking now. Go westwards and in time you'll reach Firle Beacon. From here, you can look south to Newhaven Harbour or north and see the hillfort on Mount Caburn. Further on, observe the Newhaven Energy Recovery facility with its 65 metre chimneys. This is essentially an attractive-looking incinerator. Lots of more ancient activity is evident all around. I rediscovered the Foundle sculpture and another rather odd chalk face on a post. I was grateful for the views today, despite the darkened skies. Beyond Firle Beacon, are the radio masts and another trig at Red Lion Pond. Looks like you can descend Itford Hill directly, or follow the main path as it zig-zags down to the bridge over the A26 to Southease. The Youth Hostel has a cafe where refill your water and refuel.I did this

Cross the the railway at Southease station and then The Ouse. At the west bank, go south on what is now the Ouse Valley Way. Egrets, gulls and oyster catchers lined the river. I walked through the sea purslane and samphire as I went. The path leaves the river just before Piddinghoe and crosses the Piddinghoe Road at Dean's Farm. Be forthright and continue up the drive by the pond. leave the road to cross the field and ascend to join the bridleway. Leave the Ouse Valley Way and go southwest on the narrow tarmac road. I missed the trig point on Lodge Hill but it is, apparently, just on the fence line. Continue to Hoddern Farm. The path goes through a little field where there is a little horse but I was unsure so continued around on the road. Turn left onto the bridleway and left again on a footpath. The chimney at Peacehaven wastewater works is visible. The place has a giant grass roof.

Walk to the edge of the woods and go north before reentering them and going east at Bollen's Bush. Ascend the edge of the wood and join the edge of the golf course. Go southwest on the edge of the green to join Heathdown Avenue. Go right onto The Fairway and then left on Valley Road. Up to Brighton Road and cross it to join Upper Valley Road to Newhaven Heights. You will join the number 2 cycle route onto Gibbon Road and down towards Newhaven Harbour. Take the Fort Road to the Fort, no less. The carpark gives you access to the Fort, the cliff edge and the Castle Hill Nature Reserve. The fort was shut! This was a bit of a blow but it did not stop me exploring the gun emplacements on the reserve. What's not to love?

Back to the Harbour via the Ouse Valley trail and The Seahaven Coastal Trail. The route trebles as the England Coastal Path and quadruples as the end of the Vanguard Way. I even saw a sticker for a London-Paris cycle route. In any case, walk along the harbour and absorb the history to the soundtrack of the current busy port. Join West Quay Road, cross the Ouse, one last time, and head to Newhaven Town station. Home in good time.