The Spaces in Between
At first glance, this is a straightforward tramp to the coast but it wouldn't be a Lady Who Walks walk if it didn't come with a little excessive circumnavigation. Let's call it a spiralling out of Lewes, a stop at a dead writer's house, before a fairly direct but hilly jaunt into Rottingdean.
The length was ok but the walk was thoroughly helped by having an excellent return option via a seamless step onto a number 27 bus to Brighton station. Access to the beginning is via the train to Haywards Heath and out towards Ore.
From the Station entrance at Lewes, turn left and then left at the roundabout onto Mountfield Road and follow the signs for Priory Park. This is also a section of the Greenwich Meridian Trail. On the right is The Mount where you can get views of The Priory and The Castle. I took a little detour upwards and observed the haze that still kept the sky a little overcast. I cool breeze was whipping the clouds over and occasionally ruffled the feathers of the resident jackdaws, disturbed in their morning manoeuvres. Head in a westerly direction and get some history on the Cluniac remains.
On the western edge, you can cross the car park at the end of the Cockshut Road and head south under the A27. Continue south on the footpath and enjoy the Cockshut Nature Reserve. Join the tarmac path alongside the Kingston Road and eventually a footbridge to join it and cross over. Take the path Spring Barn Farm and follow the direction of the river, alongside the barns and into a field. You'll exit onto Ashcombe Lane. The jumper came off and the sky brightened.
Opposite is The Street, The Juggs pub and the Church. Take this. I found the church open. You can enter the churchyard of St Pancras and exit the in the western corner to the edge of the recreation ground and tennis courts. Continue to skirt the field on the outside in a northwesterly direction and you'll come out on Church Lane. Carry on up hill and you meet the Kingston Ridge or Juggs Road, a bridleway that crosses back over Ashcombe Lane. The prison is visible and views to the south.
On your left is the impressive Ashcombe Windmill with its six sweeps. The mill can be seen several times on the walk. After the trig which I did not see, take the western footpath down the hill towards the A27 to cross it on the footbridge and then go under the railway.
Cross the Brighton Road and join Houndean Bottom. The bridleway merges with the footpath at the farm. Take the footpath going east up the hill to reach the footpath going north and south. There are signs here saying onward is private but I continued on the well-worn path to the bridleway beyond. You are very close to Jill's Pond and I confess, I squeezed through the fence to enter the access land. This is Landport Bottom and the site of the Battle of Lewes from 1264. Work your way over to Offham Hill and the very edge of the chalk quarries. Views are dramatic over to Cliffe Hill and the Ouse below. Drop down through the woods to Offham. Head to the church on The Drove. and then take the byway going back on the eastern side of the A275.
Now head over to the Ouse by Chalkpit Cut which goes under the railway. Head south on the river. You won't be surprised that this is the Sussex Ouse Valley Way. The sky was darkening to the north and there was a rumble of thunder. I didn't have a coat as it was so warm and hadn't really expected a downpour and, luckily, only a couple of spots were felt. Cross the river via Willey's Bridge and the path takes you back into Lewes with the Harvey's Brewery in front of you. On to the Cliffe High Street, turn right and take the western bank of the Ouse into The Lewes Railway Land Nature Reserve. Have a wander then make your way back to the river path. Once uder the railway bridge again, leave the Ouse Valley Way and take the footpath that runsbetween the Cockshut and the A27.
Back under via the tunnel with major de ja vu. This time, turn left on this once lost bridleway for a taste of the floodplain. This was a highway of dragonflies in a watery world. After Rise Farm, turn left and carry on back round to the foot of The Brooks. There are views back to Lewes. The breeze hissed through the reeds on the way to Iford. On to the main road at the church and back, briefly, on the GMT, turn left and continue until a footpath arrives on the left to take you obliquely across a field towards the Piddinghoe Road. Follow the road until another footpath crosses you towards Rodmell. Once beyond the tennis courts and onto the road, go left and find Virginia and Leonard Woolf's home. I had a lovely time imagining VW's walks in the area and her writing in the shed.
Head to the main road. I had an enormous lunch at the Abergavenny Arms. Ascend Mill Lane. Views are available over to Caburn and Firle Beacon. This byway reaches The South Downs Way at the hill top. Cross it and descend the footpath. This rises again Fore Hill. At the top I dithered. Some bullocks hugged the gate enthusiastically. I partly descended to Cricketing Bottom but was not able to go to far. I went back up and contemplated vaulting the barbed wire fence a little lower in the other direction; not ideal. By this time, the clammer had dispersed and the cows had fallen to eating. The whole family had arrived, including a big ginger bull, who eyed me casually. I bit the bullet and took the opportunity to gently open the gate and cling to the edge of the field until I was almost out of sight, before following the line of the path westward. This might seem extreme but an experience a few weeks ago caused me to be cautious.
Unhindered with the afternoon sun in your eyes, continue west and partly ignore the right of way on the map in favour of the straightforward track. Join the bridleway at Saltdean and descend to the twinkling town with sea views visible near Tenant Hill. Tumulus Road looks extreme at this angle and it is this road you head for, once Saltdean Avenue is met. Bishopstone Drive merges with Whiteway Lane. Rottingdean Windmill stands proudly ahead of you.
Meet the quaintness of Rottingdean and join Whipping Post Lane for the High Street. To the sea. You can take a bus into Brighton and back up the line to Burgess Hill or enjoy a seaside treat before your return. The hesitation of the bus queue was to my benefit as I ran across the junction. Deep satisfaction and seaward views on my return.
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