A Sea Change
This is the second week in a row I've walked the last leg in the dark and it's not the first time I've headed in the direction of the lights in Lewes to navigate home. Despite maxing out on daylight, this walk was well-timed and directed with fortunate decisions and lots of variety. It is evidence, if any was needed, that a different day holds the prospect of different outcomes and a different perspective.
Seaford can be reached in under an hour or just over, depending on timing. A train to Haywards Heath and another from Lewes gets you there but it's possible to travel down to Brighton and or get a bus.
So it was that I watched the sun rise from Bishopstone. Leaving Seaford Station, take Dane Road to the sea and join The Esplanade going east. Prom to the Martello Tower which houses Seaford Museum. I was walking into quite a refreshing breeze but the day was warming into one of clear skies. The vertiginous beach belied a winter sea that was busy smashing at the cliffs and groynes. Beyond here is Splash Point, at which juncture, head up the hill on the Coast Path. This is also the Vanguard Way.
For all of this time, you have been walking with the golf course. Head across now, to the left of the fairway, when you are in sight of a DVOR. This construction, the internet tells me, is a pilots' navigational aid or beacon known as a Doppler Very High Frequency Omnidirectional Range. It seems things have largely moved over to satellite but the system is still operational. There is a 1950s feel to the space-age design. A concrete track leads you through the gorse to take a closer look. Return and keep heading north and downhill to meet the footpath continuing east. At South Hill Barn, some refreshment can be had, (if you're not too early). This is all part of Seaford Head Nature Reserve that encompasses WWII infrastructure, gorsey scrub and older evidence of human activities. Crows and goldfinches fed on the seed heads in the field set aside for them. Continue east on the concrete but head to the cliff edge at the first opportunity. This is Hope Bottom. The high water prevented a descent to the beach.
Once you reach the much photographed Coastguard cottages, take the inside path to Cuckmere Haven, an area managed by the National Trust. The sea boiled and frothed in an impressive way before I joined the banks, as the high tide pushed its way up the Cuckmere River. From the beach, you'll pass the concrete stepping stones of the tank traps. It is possible, at low tide, to cross the water (maybe barefoot) and join the east bank. Not today. The silty mud was more slippery than ice and, in an effort to steady myself, my keys nearly flew into the 1840s canal that slices the meanders. At the last moment, the path rejoins the Vanguard Way to pass the pub and cross the Exceat bridge. This 1870s bridge was designed for horsedrawn traffic and is due for renewal to suit the current weight of the vehicles that ply this stretch. Regular buses can take you to Eastbourne or Brighton.
I took the opportunity to stop at the cafe for an overdue breakfast. The Seven Sisters Country Park is part of the South Downs National Park and has a visitor centre here. Ignore Friston Forest for now and cross back over the A259. You can follow the Country Park's Country Trail that takes you up hill, eastward, in the same direction of the road. Great views over Cuckmere Haven are thrown into view. A stone marks the site of a medieval church. Continue on the trail as it stays out of the valley and meets the footpath and road to now enter the trees.
The path descends quickly. As it bears right, you may spy the Friston Water Tower. This would have been more of a landmark than it is today but for the planting of the Forest in 1930s by the Forestry Commission. Leave the footpath and take the route in a northerly direction down to Friston Bottom. Continue on the broad forest drive and pass the pond. You explore any of the smaller paths and take care on the numerous cycling routes but I chose to skirt Middle Brow to rejoin a bridleway going northwest over Snap Hill. Take either of the bridleways that lead to Lullington Heath. Taking a leaflet, you can follow a trail around the reserve. I took the track up the hill, outside the fence and followed the instruction to duck behind the pollution monitoring station to a platform formed of chalk spoil on the southwestern corner of the reserve. This is well worth it for masterful views over the forest and the entire heath. You are on the western-most bridleway going north that takes you to Winchester Pond. More views, information and archeology at the crossroads of the bridleways.
I almost didn't head for the hills and considered a quick route down to Alfriston but changed my mind for the better. Go north on this hulk of grassland. As you round the corner westwards and join the South Downs Way, you can't fail to be impressed by Deep Dean and the Tenantry Ground. Maybe even more impressive than Devil's Dyke. Today, I was reminded that on the previous occasions a mist had hung over this special place. Visibility was astonishing and it was easy to be drawn to the tumulus on Windover Hill. From here you can see over to the Arlington Reservoir and down to the Cuckmere. Know also that you are just behind the Long Man, although out of sight. I took my time and headed straight down on the South Downs Way, towards the reservoir building. Cross the Street but once over, leave the South Downs Way for the footpath. Another excellent decision. The Cuckmere was quite flooded and I thought best to go straight for the bridge. The church at Alfriston is directly on your path. This also gives you the opportunity of popping in on the diminutive Good Shepherd on the left. You are on the Cuckmere Pilgrim Path. Head to Plonk Barn and over the bridge. I had an indulgent late lunch at the Badgers.
Back on the High Street, take Star Lane and return to the South Downs Way. Another decision made with reflection on other options led to this last tramp up the hill. There are relatively few connections at Berwick station and a previous walk on the long Old Coach Road put me off the low route to Glynde. The upper route has the advantage of straightforward navigation. And so it is that you watch the sun set, as I did, via Firle Beacon and the masts on Beddingham Hill. Beautiful views north and south as the lights began to twinkle and the road, snaking below, beckoned me home. Take the patchy tarmac byway down. I was treated to the crepuscular activities of a barn owl, just below me. Cross the A27 and Lacy's Hill will take you to the station. Google helped me find the quickest route via Lewes and Wivelsfield.
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