Out, Downs and Bottoms

BERWICK STATION TO NEWHAVEN VIA ARLINGTON RESERVOIR, ALFRISTON AND TIDE MILLS

Consulting the master map of my Grand Tour, I spotted a few areas to fill in with walks. Many of these are floodplain with little footpath but others contain some counter-intuitive up and down routes alongside established long-distance paths. It was quite last minute but I fancied water and exploring some trails just off the South Downs Way. On a bright Thursday, what better way to conclude than with the sea. Although I had intended going back inland, Newhaven Station presented itself at a weary point. A wise decision to leave it there.

A WARNING: It might only be March but I unexpectedly burnt my left and sun-facing side, so apply the suncream and prevent more than a day of regret.

This walk swung from the furious chatter of chiff chaffs, geese, skylarks and back to chiff-chaffs. A serene morning of mist, quickly resolved. From the gentle river, rose an upward display of the Downs, with all its curvacious Bottoms. This was followed by a contrasting finish of flinty ruins and the noisy industriousness of a port town. A taste of vineyard in the middle. You aren't served up any great highlights to speak of but this record does serve as a reminder that an alternative perspective on the same hills is worthy. Criss-cross those highways with enthiusiasm and you'll find wilder ways.

 Berwick station is reached in around 45 minutes from Burgess Hill via Haywards Heath. Newhaven Town provides a return in an hour via Brighton.

From the station, head north and after the car park, bear left behind the houses. You are on the Vanguard Way to Ludlay Farm and walking through the Firle Estate owned by the Gages. Mays Farm is marked on the map as a historical feature and was also purchased by the Gage family in the 1820s. I can find little about it but the house is impressive. A number of rabbits fled. Don't go through the gate but head northeast over a couple of stiles. Opposite another house, go east at the fingerpost and to the corner of Ludlay Copse. Continue to cross Station Road and reach Arlington Reservoir. I paused for a moment to enjoy the stillness and the gentle honk of geese. A wren sang loudly and insistently on the hedge.

Go anticlockwise on the bridleway. This path avoids a couple of waterside farms before reaching the Dam wall on the eastern side. Continue along the reservoir edge to the woods. The water supplies Eastbourne, Polegate, Hailsham and Heathfield and was formed in 1969 from a meander of the Cuckmere. You can circuit the whole thing via the Nature Reserve's Osprey Trail. Now head eastward to cross the river via the bridge.

You are now on the Wealdway. Go north and visit the church. It is a Saxon church with possibly even older roots and is dedicated to St Pancras, the patron saint of children. Walk on to the pub through the lych gate and then south. The footpath which takes you back to the Wealdway, heading south, is on the right. You are also following the Cuckmere Pilgrim Path which links the churches in this area and has a distinctive shell marker on the fingerposts. I caught a glimpse of the Wilmington Man on the hillside although it was still quite hazy.

Cross the Chilver Bridge Road and carry on, following the now wiggly river. The path curves round to the east before heading over the level-crossing. You will eventually cross the A27 at Milton Gate to take Milton Street. Going right on another footpath brings you back up to parallel the A27 on the cycle path but you now go south to merge with the bridleway. The seagulls were intense in numbers in the air and following a tractor tilling the fields here. Ignore the first turn but take the second on the left before going south. At the Lullington Road, cross it and join it round the corner. The path carries on in this direction to meet the bridge over the Cuckmere. Cross it and walk on the west bank to Alfriston.

Do what you wish in Alfriston. I popped through the car parks for the toilet and then relented and opted for a brunch in the garden at Badgers. Had to endure some knobs talking about arms deals which took the edge off what otherwise would have been a perfect interlude.

 At the Market Cross, take Rope Walk west for some flinty-walled atmosphere. Deans Road doubles as the South Downs Way and so follow it up hill. After you round the corner, remember to look back as the views open up. Pass the cows and at the junction, you'll be at Long Burgh. The remains of this neolithic barrow are significant despite the appearances.

Take an immediate left off the spur and begin to descend towards France Bottom. At the trees, go left an ascend obliquely to join the bridleway. Go right. You are now on the slopes and curves of the Rathfinny Estate and I interrupted a tour. It was apparent by the signposts that you can take yourself around the vineyard off your own bat, too. I had a sit down amongst the skylarks.

 Just continue on the bridleway and head up hill in a northeasterly direction to join The Comp track. You are on this all but briefly before turning left on the footpath. I did not pause as I descended into Devilsrest Bottom, but eyed the new mother cows and sheep until I reached Norton. Cross over the Bishopstone road an climb the hill as it swings south.

Do not go through the gate but admire the views of the incinerator and, in the other direction Bishopstone's distinctive church before heading south to the trees. Enter the wood and take the track all the way down to the Bishopstone Road again. Turn right and follow the road towards the A259. take the footpath to knock the corner off and join Marine Parade.

Take the opportunity to enter Bishopstone Station and look at its Art Deco style before rejoining the road and heading to the sea. Now you are on the England Coast Path. I sat on some concrete and ate my orange while watching the twinkling afternoon sea. I was probably already quite burnt. Go west to the remains of Tide Mills, a once bustling village.

By following the waymarked route, you'll enjoy some aggregate-based port activity before going landward on the Railway Road, crossing the river and the railtrack to get to Newhaven Station, once over the Drove Road.

The timing was too good a chance to pass up and I jumped on a train to Brighton. The damage was done.