A Capital Start: Capital Ring Part I
Suffice to say that the normal run of things was disrupted by a bank holiday, the company of S and a trip out of county to London. This was a walk on a route around the centre of the city known as the Capital Ring. The following represents about a quarter of it, at 16 or so miles. There is little point in re-describing in detail the practicalities of this popular route but, for the record, I can relate my experience of London's northeast when, right now, I might easily be telling you about the bluebell woods of West Sussex.
A couple of hackneyed descriptors of the big smoke roll out from me at pace; firstly, London sits only second to Tokyo in terms of the amount of parkland. Secondly, the city happily reveals its aged side with ample evidence of historical human activity and feats of urban engineering. It is also difficult to ignore the impact of geological time and the particularly alluvial nature of this corner. London is diverting.
With that done, know that Finsbury Park can be reached in just over an hour with a travelcard from Burgess Hill Station, on a single train.
For reference, this section starts midway through section 12 and finishes at section 1 of the official route.
From the station and Station Place, go north and cross the A1201 to immediately enter the park. Finsbury Park dates from 1869 and was developed around a much older attraction centred on Hornsey Wood, including a cafe, later pub and pleasure gardens. The site for Finsbury Park was developed out of an act of parliament to allow the Metropolitan Board of Works to provide a park for the use of the public of the northern suburbs. It was intended for health, recreation and enjoyment and originally to be called Albert Park. In the event, both the act and the park, landscaped by Alexander Mackenzie, was named after the Finsbury residents, further south, petitioned for a park of their own. Finsbury Park station precedes the park by 8 years and was called Seven Sisters Road.
The lake in the park was enlarged by feeding it from an extraordinary 17th century engineering project known as the New River. Water, all the way from Hertfordshire, is channelled down towards Stoke Newington to provide Londoners with fresh drinking water. As the path leaves the park eastwards and crosses the road, you follow the banks of the New River itself. You are now also on the New River Path.
As the route curves round to the southwest, you pass Woodberry Wetlands. This is the latest incarnation of the area, it being only opened to the public in 2016. The wetland at the site of the Stoke Newington East Reservoir, was fed by that New River from 1833. Woodberry Down land and the east and west reservoirs looked to be filled in and overbuilt on the privatisation of Thames Water but campaigning has seen the east made into a reserve, where wildlife is returning. West reservoir is for water activities, including open swimming. We were too early for both centres but the cafes might make a nice stop.
The Castle is an old water pumping station built after the reservoirs and set for demolition in the1980s. It was saved and is now a climbing centre with sustainable aspirations. It sits on the corner of Green Lanes as you continue south. We peaked a bit too early on the cafe requirement and found much better options later on. If you can manage it, push on through Clissold Park and Stoke Newington.
The park is another from the 1880s and the eventual responsibility of the London County Council who took over from the MBW. The estate turned open space had the proposed name of Albert but he misses out a second time. Within the bounds are two lakes, named after the founders, a section of the New River and Clissold House. This was once the home of quaker Jonathan Hoare, then the Crawshays and then the Reverend Clissold. Our clergyman next door was a forbidden suitor of a Crawshay daughter. After she inherited, the house took his name and ownership upon their marriage.
At the corner of the park are two St Mary's Churches. Old St Mary's Church is Elizabethan, on the site of an older church. Note its unsubtle reconstruction after being bombed in the blitz. It is an arts venue. The other newer Mary was built in 1858 after battles within the high and low church.
Along Stoke Newington Church Road is Abney Park. This 1840s garden cemetery is one of the 'magnificent seven' and packed with graves of dissenters and non-conformists. It has been largely left to nature since the 1970s. It was laid out as a mature arboretum and now the place continues to be managed for wildlife. It is a wonderful mess of memorials, vaults and vegetation and is nationally important for the naturalisation of certain tree species and heath flora on the brickearth.
Hackney is home to one of the largest Charedi Orthodox Jewish communities, outside New York and Israel and as we entered Cazenove Road, many were off to prayer. I admired the furry Schtreimel hats and shiny coats as we made are way through to Springfield Road and the park.
Views to the Walthamstow Marshes, wetlands and beyond open up as you follow the signs. This area can be explored further. Springfield House is the only private house that remains on the grounds and is now a cafe (still not open for us). The park was opened in 1905 and rescued the area from development. The park is London's first Regionally important Geological Site. The ice age River Lea deposited sand and gravel and this is topped with fine brick-earth sediment to form this sloped vista. Rainwater hitting the clay layer below emerges seasonally as springs near the tennis courts. Navigate round to the bridge and over the river.
You now follow the river and the Lee Navigation where the narrow boats and barges reside. Water is flowing from the Chilterns through the Lee Valley and its park and the river is said to contribute much to London's hard drinking water. It was easy walking but wits were required to steer away from self-improving joggers and the many bike-riding food deliverers.
As you round the bottom of the Olympic Park, you leave the river and follow the Jubilee Greenway developed in the Olympic year 2012. The red form of the arcelormittal orbit is on your left. You could stop here and explore further but we carried on. After Pudding Mill Lane Station you will pass the Abbey Mill Pumping Station or the 'Cathedral of Sewage'. There is a very real connection to be made, with the occasional venting upon the very path under your feet and the sewage pipe signage. The greenway runs upon Joseph Bazalgette's Northern Outfall Sewer of 1863, specifically on the the Embankment (NOSE). This is no secret. The path has long been here and was known as sewerbank.
There is currently a little diversion from the Greenway along Abbey Road and back. After this, you have ample time to take in the post-industrial landscape. We popped into Plaistow for a lunch stop. More Greenway follows. Just when you think you can't take any more, you finally leave and head south to cross the Newham Way to Beckton Park. At the road you spy the 'Beckton Alps'. This man-made hill is a result of the Gas, Light and Coke Company. The CEO of 1870 was Simon Adams Beck and is responsible for the placenames in the once remote and marshy area.
Go through Beckton Park Station and continue to the Royal Albert Quay. Albert gets to name something at last. Go east in front of the East London University buildings. Here you can watch the planes take off at London City Airport. Rejoin the road at the Gallions Roundabout. There is an alternative route via the bridge or take Atlantis Avenue. Wallis Walk will take you along to the side of the Thames. You may have an issue crossing the lock as you may find the gate secured. We crossed despite the complaints of a security guy as we couldn't hear him very well in the wind. The feeling is one of being quite out on a limb before you swing back round into North Woolwich.
With the cars queueing for the ferry on the pier, head across the road to the Grade II listed round building. This is the entrance to the Woolwich Foot Tunnel. Go east on the far bank a little before cutting back in to Woolwich Arsenal Station.
The DLR heads back under the Thames to connect with the King George V station and allows you see the Tate & Lyle factories of Silvertown and the Thames Barrier. That seemed a suitable finish. Changing at Canning Town allowed us to go to London Bridge and then home.
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