Bigging it Up, Snaking it Down

AMBERLEY TO MIDHURST VIA BIGNOR, STANE STREET, HOUGHTON FOREST, GRAFFHAM AND AMBERSHAM AND HEYSHOTT COMMON

 

This was a surprisingly good and varied walk for one intended to fill in a gap on a map. The temptation was to swing the route down to Chichester but having been to Halnaker and Boxgrove, I chose to go back north, to get more trees and take another stroll on the Serpent Trail. The last section is a wonderful change from wooded chalk hill to sandy common.

Amberley can be made and returned from Burgess Hill via a train changing at Three Bridges. Midhurst to Pulborough is probably the most practical connection via bus number 1. Having said this, a well-timed return from Midhurst can make the difference between one or two hours. You might also get a single from Chichester, where buses from Midhurst are fairly frequent.

The morning was freshened by a previous day's showers but developed into a warm and mostly sunny day. The jumper quickly came off. Begin by leaving Amberley Station and go under the railway bridge. Swiftly, cross the 19th century toll bridge and take the path on the left, on the bank of the Arun. The very same goose I'd met on a previous walk honked territorially at me from the river. Horses also greeted me as I crossed their field. I was nervous but they quickly fell from interest to eating. Marsh marigolds shone brightly. Continue on the boardwalks to the Monarch's Way before switching back to the road. Enjoy the timber frame and thatch of Houghton.

Cross the road and continue on the bridleway after the George & Dragon. Cross the A29 to follow the edge of the wood as it is marked. You will enter Houghton Forest. There is a cafe on the roundabout called Whiteways, popular with biking folk and the whole area is covered in trails. I was a bit unsure about leaving the the Monarch's Way. It seems to have been once open access land but the Forestry Commission still appear to tolerate its use, without marking any trails.

Leave The Denture and the Monarch's Way on the bridleway on the right. Follow the obvious track across and up the field as the bridleway marked is redundant. A hare scurried away from me on this flinty terrain. The last bit of the actual path also seems superfluous as the chalk track on your left takes you to the junction with the South Downs Way going west. To be sure, the bridleway also marked that goes through the gate on Westburton Hill, is not maintained. Just save the confusion and go with the chalk. Enjoy the elevation and views that have opened up all around.

I stopped at Toby's Stone on Bignor Hill and had a welcome greeting from a young spaniel. As you descend, you reach the car park of the National Trust land and Slindon Estate. I took a diversion from the South Downs Way to bag another trig on Glatton Beacon. This hill you can see from afar. From the top itself, you can see both north towards Duncton Down and south to the sea. I suppose you have choices; to go north to Duncton or, as I did, head back to the SDW and take Stane Street. Just follow the path the round to the southwest.

Rejoin the Monarch's Way as it very directly and obviously becomes the Roman Stane Street. Following the line would take you into Chichester. The situation is very attractive. You can walk on the agger and pretend you're a Roman. Eartham Wood also appears to tolerate some wandering. The bridleway enters. After the woods, leave Stane Street and follow the Monarch's Way at the road. You are well-directed over the A285. Leave the trail at the flinty field with the curious clump of trees at its centre. Navigate roud and head vaguely for the edge. Walking on this surface was hard-going and I left opposite the car park of Selhurst Park Wood. Go a little further west for the actual stile.

A bridleway takes you down on a broad drive. If butterfilies were a journey, it would be orange tips, green-veined whites, peacocks, red admirals and speckled woods. This was very pleasing. At Droke, pass the houses and take the bridleway steeply up Oxen Down. At the big woody junction, bear right towards Crown Tegleaze. Without trying, you are very near the highest point of the South Downs in Sussex, (one for another time). The summit is buried in the woods but emerging from the trees on the South Downs way is satisfying. Blackdown in the highest point in Sussex and is north of here. A bench is welcome.

Pushing on, go west until you cross the flinty ground to descend through the trees to Graffham. Some chaffinches stopped to splash on an enormous chalky puddle on the path. The path down lowers steeply to the village amongst the trees and my achy feet slapped and slid inelegantly along the path. I disturbed some deer and they rustled off amongst the beech leaves. 

Follow the road past the church and into Graffham. The village shop just beyond The Foresters was a welcome stop for a late lunch. Continue in this direction and take the next footpath left. Lambs lolled about in the field beyond and then the first real whiff of bluebells came from the woods beyond. Back on the road, turn right and go onward at the T-junction.

The bridleway will reach the Serpent Trail and a very different terrain. The path slithers its way through sandy, gorsey common and pine. It is easy navigation and, apart from slicing a meander to cross New Road, I stuck to it as far as the railway bridge over the dismantled Pulborough to Midhurst line. This railway had ceased even before the Beeching cuts and means you'll be getting a bus back.

Now leave the Serpent and join the New Lipchis Way into Midhurst. Follow the Costers Brook to the Selham Road and follow the Cowdray Estate colours west, past the castle itself. Go north at sight of the church and the bus stops are just opposite the South Downs Visitor Centre, in view of the castle.

I visited neither as it was late afternoon and I had just missed my connection. Luckily I'd stocked up on snacks from Graffham and spent fifty minutes munching crisps and honeycomb.

 

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