Opposing Views
This is an anti-walk. A straightforward Lewes to Brighton route but on the paths I haven't done in the last two years. It includes my least favourite bit of the South Downs Way. To be clear, anyone doing the SDW will have to do this section and you can't fail to be impressed by the dramatic glacial valleys and chalk cliffs. It's just the monotony of concrete track. S said I should do this in the winter when the firmness under foot would be appreciated but we are where we are.
Thankfully, I have discovered that, if you're after a different perspective, the landscape of the South Downs is enough. This can feel hard to believe when features may be few and far between but when you travel, the geography peeks around a different hillside, strikes a pose on the valley floor and exerts itself in crop markings and tumuli.
I was grateful also for a return to more local walking. Squeezing twenty miles out of the day was unhurried and while a dip in the sea may have been welcome, an ice-cream was had.
Lewes is easily reached via a change at Haywards Heath, from Burgess Hill. A direct train will return you from Brighton. I caught the 7 from the marina to the station.
From Lewes station, head up Station Street, west on the High Street and through the South Gate. You can enjoy the views of the younger motte and audio descriptions of the castle from here near the Barbican Gate and Museum. The bowling green separates the 11th century and older 'Brack Mount', Lewes castle being one of only two castles to have two mounds in the country (the other is Lincoln).
Stop at the edge of The Paddock to enjoy the view of the battle grounds of Simon De Montfort and his barons. Castle Lane is on your left. Cross New Road and continue on Paddock Lane. Bradford Road continues on the edge of Baxters Field. Take the cut through to Prince Edward's Road and then Ferrers Road. A path next to the Primary School leads through to Hill Road. On the western end, over the Nevill Road is the Old Racecourse and Landport Bottom.
You could have a lovely walk around the 1264 battlefield and listen via the QR codes to the story of the Battle of Lewes. Note that the entrance coincides with the much older archeology of some burial mounds. There are more permissive paths available through this access land. The mist still hung on the South Downs but shifted at moments to reveal their peaks. By the time I reached the high point here, the jumper was off and a good deal of sun was offered. Head to the northern edge of the reserve and bear west. The bridleway will take you to the edge of the Old Race Course. This shut in 1964 but the gallops remain. Crossing points exist to join the inner footpath with this outer bridleway.
Continue northward to the National Trusts Blackcap and the trig point. Aptly, as I passed Cuckoo Bottom I heard the bird. The trees on Blackcap are visible to orientate yourself as you make your way onward. They partly obscure views north over the scarp. Do not underestimate the woodland in the rolling, grassy downland. The feeling is one of muscular, curving and interlocking hills but the trees upon and tucked secretively between, accommodate the wilder fauna and flora on the chalk. Descend to the border of Ashcombe Bottom and enter through the gate. The single bridleway forms a grassy drive through a surprisingly bird and flower filled wood.
As you exit, move a little further south to the gate marked with bridleways. Ascend the hill westward, with views to the ridge and a last stand of trees, cross the SDW to round and climb the hill to Balmer Huff. Balmer Farm hides the site of a lost medieval village. Descend to the tarmac to the A27. The striking slope on your left is a limb of Long Hill and a single bull eyed me from the bottom. Take the path that parallels the main road going east. Housedean Farm advertised coffee and ice-cream and it was time for both. The campsite shop offered me a rest to watch the frenetic house martin nesting behaviour on the house opposite.
Return to the crossing and continue east on the SDW. A tunnel takes you under the railtrack and the sound of the road falls away. The path follows the natural high path around the Cold Coombes. An excellent hollowed log provided a welcome stop to admire the view, with the windmill in the distance. The SDW becomes the Juggs Track to Kingston, at this point. As you round back towards the south, geological views open to the east. The dramatic flatness of The Brooks between Mount Caburn and Firle, the cliffs and wetland at Lewes and Iford and Rodmell, west of The Ouse. The monotonous concrete path endures until just before the junction with Whiteway. Leave the bridleway and go south at the crossroads to Breaky Bottom. You can see the vineyard from here.
When you reach the bridleway, go north. Make sure you take the path that leads on the outside furthest from the ruined building. Here is Harvey's Cross. I missed it. Both the 19th century cross, the building opposite and deserted Balsdean to the north, suffered with the Canadian military exercises in WWII. The hills and valleys are said to be haunted with the sounds of galloping horses. I could hear someone shouting near the green-roofed water pumping station below High Hill. Cling to the left bridleway on this hill.
You can now see down into Rottingdean and see the black smock mill. At the road, bear right and take the next left path through the woods. Two paths merge as you reach the High Street towards the sea front. I made my way to the coast road and west to have lunch with oblique views to the sea. Sheep Walk takes you to the reserve of Beacon Hill and the windmill. This was open and the sea breeze whistled through the structure. It still stands thanks to the metal frame skeleton that preserves it.
Make your way to the path round the back of St Dunstan's. Go north on Greenways in Ovingdean before cutting through the access area to Castle Hill. Roedean School is on your left. Descend to the roads and cross them both to join the path on the cliff.
Now descend on the concrete to the undercliff. You can now go west through the marina and cross the Asda carpark. Head under the multi-storey and go west to the bus stop near McDonalds. From here a bus carried my weary but satisfied legs to the station to a soundtrack of a sweary mother who missed her train home in rush hour Brighton.
Comments
Post a Comment