Wealden Alliteration
This walk is pretty flat and draws a line across an area in a direction I needed to walk, i.e. for no particular reason, other than to crosshatch the map with my wanderings. The trailhead and destination have a ring to them and lifting oneself up to Firle and to see the sea, was not required on this occasion. Eighteen or so miles in a sultry and sometime blowy heat was quite enough. In between the blue skies, the Downs were shrouded as if warning me to keep off the hill. Who was I to argue?
A strong attempt is made in this area of ancient droving routes, sleepy lanes and anciently undeveloped parishes, not to gather much attention but surprises are yielded. The topography is subtle with small rises and open horizons revealing the Downs darkly in the distance. Nodes of human activity and frequent woodland, old and new punctuate your walk with history and an enthusiastic sense of community. A second chance was given to Laughton Greenwood, otherwise known as Upper Vert Wood. I rushed through this area on this walk but did not have much time to appreciate more than the byway. This time, Rowland Wood that adjoins it was a revelation and ideal for its winged content on this hot day. Efforts at restoring the character of this area are all around. I will be back.
I got to Blackboys using a train to Haywards Heath and then one to Lewes. The Regency 29a bus feels quite posh and then takes you towards Heathfield. You can jump of at Gun Road. Return was via Berwick Station, use any waiting time in the Berwick Inn. Go to Brighton and then back up to Burgess Hill.
Blackboys probably derives its meaning from bois meaning wood and its as well to think of industrious activity in dark woods as you head south. Opposite Gun Road is School Lane. Take it. Cross Lewes Road at its end and enter Kiln Wood via a path a little south of the junction. You can explore freely this and Turnmill Wood. Stick to Vanguard Way, if you wish and you'll exit on Hollow Lane. My first treat was a little toad tumbling down some steps. If not for its motion, I would have considered it a dead leaf. Its beady little gold eyes looked into mine very briefly as I helped it on its way. Leave the road at Bushmere Stud and follow a significant line of oaks. On Bushberry Lane, turn left and continue in this line to continue south on Hollow Lane. Leave on the left to carry on the Vanguard Way below Hawkhurst Common Wood. This is privately owned and not accessible.
Zigzag along to Moat Lane, cross it and leave the Vanguard Way. You are below Heronsdale Manor and into the edge of Court Wood. You will see the oast house as you cross the field. A delightful bit of footage can be seen of the farm in 1942, here. The path passes through some metal gates and a herd a fresians. You are now in site of Waldron's All Saint Church, up the hill from the elegant lime tree. There is a story that the font outside the front door was rolled down the hill by Thomas Cromwell's men and landed in Denman's farm. Here it watered the cattle for many years before returning.
Go down this same road, Rocks Lane, and rejoin a path that will reenter the lime tree field and follow the opposite edge of the wood. There are indeed local rocks to be seen. Follow Fox Hunt Green further south and enter the field at the juction with Moat Lane. For one moment I thought I would need to enter another field of cows but the path actually continues on the outside edge of this and into the currently dug up Crouch's Farm. Follow the path towards the line of poplars and through to the Hollow Lane again. Go north, briefly, and left into Hawkhurst Common. No longer a common and enclosed long ago, you find yourself crossing a field midway towards a tree northwest to join the Wealdway going southwest. This posed a problem as the curious Fresians were numerous. I walked the edge of the field then ducked around the edge on the Piper's Farm side. It was the safest thing to do. You will cross Great Wood which has beech trees.
As you descend the hill, you will pass some seemingly incongruous gravestones. I could just make out Princess Pati on the far side. These are the resting places of racehorses. Hesmonds Stud and Old Whyly B&B are below. The Downs show themselves again. Directly over the East Hoathly Road is East Hoathly and Halland Community Garden and its space for supporting those with mental health issues and disability. It looked a picture of abundance. The Wealdway will take you through to the church. At this point, I found I needed lunch. Muffins, next to the Kings Head provided.
Back along the High Street, enter Moat Wood that appears on your right. From the footpath the remains of a moat can be seen. You could go and explore but I carried on to the Road. Cross the bypass with care. The grass in the meadow dictated my onward route. Pass on the left of the buildings and find the gap through the trees. At the junction and the unexpected lamppost, turn left. After the last remaining building on the site of Halland Farm, you find real views down this hill open up. This area was part of the Pelham Estate. Thomas Pelham having built a new house at Hall's Land or Halland, on higher less wet ground than Laughton Place, had a hunting grounds called 'New Park'. Until the 1920s you would find yourself walking down an avenue of chestnuts here, the house long gone but the views still impress upon you. Bear left when you meet the trees and head south to Park Corner.
What a joy to enter Rowland Wood and the Park Corner Heath Reserve, on a Summer's Day. I spent quite a bit of time wandering here. Dashing about after butterflies and dragonflies and not able to take many decent photos. This is part of Vert Wood, an area known for its singular butterfly populations. The wood was divided and sold after WWII, much of it turned over to conifer plantation. The area is slowly being restored and protecting the unique species. Naturally, the flora that support the winged insects is also rare and too be found here. The thought to be extinct in the UK, Lewes Wave is no longer to be found but this woodland was its final hideout. I wished for more time and a more thorough ramble. I chased many ringlets, a bright green female emporer dragonfly and a couple of large bouncy silver-washed fritillaries. Not enough.
Go south when you meet Park Lane and enter Keeper's Gate and Vert Wood proper. Norman forest law states that 'vert' refers to the green undergrowth which was needed to feed the 'beasts of the chase'. Sustaining deer in this manner was for the King's pleasure. The area would also have supported the commoners with their pigs, use of the wood for fuel, construction and charcoal making. The place is now managed and known as Laughton Greenwood with their really cool logo. Forestry students from Plumpton College are helping to make this wood what it once might have been.
Make you way down towards the byway that dissects the trees and join the footpath going southwest. You will eventually hit Pound Lane to go south onto Lewes Road and into Laughton. The green hosts the Laughton sign with the Pelham Buckle. The symbol derives from John Pelham and his capture of the King of Poitiers. I have read many different accounts of Pelham taking the King's sword, being given the sword buckle, capturing the king with the buckle etc. What is clear is that the buckle is present on many places associated with the Pelhams and their ownership and influence was extensive. Seaford also commemorates the Battle of Seaford with the place name 'The Buckle'.
The hard-working shop, at the junction, also houses the Buckle Cafe and next door is the Roebuck Inn. Take to Church Lane and walk south to the church. Pass this and be directed from the road on the footpath on the right. Cross Mill Lane and take to the bridleway through to Mark Cross Lane. Continue in this line to Ripe. Press the green button to follow the driveway at Curls Farm, walk through the garden and you will find yourself at its heart. Another Village Shop does the heavy-lifting for the community, weary cyclists and walkers. The Lamb Inn is no more. The Roman reference at the bench was intriguing but the roadways have a linear Roman feel to them and the place has a history and finds into antiquity.
Ripe means slope and a barely discernable incline drops southward on Channers Lane. When you meet Mill Lane, go east. The path turns south to meet Langtye Lane after passing through an immaculately mown field. Cross the road. I entered a field planted with an attractive cover crop of crimson clover, phacelia and vetch that was quite hard-going. I made a wrong turn in my tiredness but eventually located the stile. There is a single path to be followed over the level-crossing and onto The Street into Selmeston. The church is one on the Cuckmere Pilgrim Path. To the south, the hills slumbered in the low cloud and resolved my final destination. Now follow this bridleway east as it merges back with Vanguard Way. You will find yourself opposite the pub and station at Berwick.
The sun shone for my congratulatory pint of cider.
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