Way Out West: Capital Ring Part IV
This was an effort to do and to write about. We walked it mid June. This is the fourth and last of S and my take on the Capital Ring Walk and represents some of part 7 to some of part 12 of the official route. I'll not be too detailed because apart from a wrong turn near the end, we did this pretty accurately. It was a marathon length and we should have split it to have done it comfortably. We were so very close though and I'm glad we wrapped it up in one go. I feel you've either go to explore a bit more to find interest and take more time or whip through it. Let's whip through it.
Despite the reputation of west London being the fresher and leafier side of the capital, I found it to be a little less engaging and, in parts, a bit domestic. This should be no surprise. 'Metroland' was a term coined to market development in this area in the early twentieth century. Before this, large swathes were sparsely populated lands of wheat and then hay growing. The population was small. Roads and rail made the west to sparkling modern industry what the east had been to choking Victorian factories. Some historical insight goes a long way, in hindsight.
Travelling along the Grand Union Canal is an obvious geographical low point and makes it difficult to measure your passage of travel. There is relief though when Horsenden lifts you up and allows you to look about a bit. An afternoon in Highgate Woods might have been more of a reward if my throbbing feet hadn't dominated my sensations and the hour of silence before we entered Finsbury Park reflected a simple determination to get the slog done. A little reflection on the journey and the passage of time will heal my misteps and misgivings.
Brentford was reached with a travelcard via Clapham Junction. The return was made via East Croydon.
From the station, We returned to the red surfaced Cornelius Bridge over the river. The path runs on the towpath of what is the Grand Union Canal and is part of the walk. Boston Manor, on the east bank, was an old estate with a manor house from the 1600s. It was owned by the Clitherows, saw the construction of the Grand Junction Canal, the selling out to Brentford Urban District Council and the dissecting of the land by the M4. 28 acres are now a public park with a cafe and the house to visit. The path continues over Gallows Bridge, probably by Thomas Telford, under the motorway past Osterley Island, Lock and labyrinth weir.
The path leaves the canal, just when it looks like it gets more interesting and rejoins the river to Brent Meadow and in view of Isambard Kingdom Brunel's first major construction, the Wharncliffe Viaduct. The hollow piers house a colony of bats. The bridge is named after James Stuart Wortley Mackenzie who steered the GWR bill through parliament.
Just under the arches, you find yourself next to Hanwell Zoo and in Bunny Park. Beyond the Cricket and the Golf Club, you cross the river and enter Bittern's Field. After the High School is a former golf course turned park called Perivale. The meaning is derived from the word for pears. This area had a tiny population up until the twentieth century and the 30s.
Leaving the Brent and crossing the A40, we were treated to some very fruity language from a Irish sport's coach from within Cayton Green Park. This was a highlight because there was a feeling of being funnelled on some very flat terrain. At Greenford is a surprise. Directly after MacDonalds, you are aware of some metal gates on the underpass below Green Park Way. You are entering Paradise Fields, the UK’s only publicly-accessible urban beaver site. It is a shame then that like the landmarks already listed, the path doesn't explore more.
At the Paddington arm of The Grand Union Canal you take to the towpath again on the edge of Horsenden Hill Nature Reserve. At the bridge on Horsenden Lane, you can take a break at Horsenden Farm and enjoy the height change. We did this and arrived at the opening of the Horsenden Free Festival. We immediately won in the tombola and then were treated to one time ranger, Martin Smith, talking about butterflies at the cafe. Follow the path back to the main Capital Ring route and you will reach the summit of Horsenden Hill.
You descend to the next point of interest at Sudbury Hill. The station is an iconic example of Art Deco 1930s railway architecture and designed by Charles Holden. Soon you find yourself climbing to Harrow on the Hill. The area feels distinct and villagy. Lord Byron was schooled here and you could take a little diversion to St Mary's Churchyard and moon about poetically amongst the graves as he did. We missed this opportunity and had some slightly overpriced lunch on the high street. Appreciate that the hill slopes away steeply to the north and east, where you descend.
Some funnelling happens again, as you are escorted through the school playing fields and to the south of Northwick Park Hospital. This is also the Ducker Footpath. Soon after you walk through South Kenton Station you enter Preston Park and walk past Preston Road Station.
Next is Fryent Park. Beginning with Barn Hill. It was super hot and we were nearing the 15 mile mark. I was pretty done but we took a moment in a tree to recover. It was nice to dangle my legs. After crossing the Fryent Way you get another hill in the shape of Gotfords before some urban time.
By Brent Reservoir and Welsh Harp Nature Reserve, we were very thirsty and I didn't altogethr appreciate the SSSI with its crested grebes. More housing follows before you rejoin the Brent for one last time. It becomes the Dollis Brook. We took it a bit too far and had to backtrack to the park and follow the Mutton Brook. This is the Eastern leg of the Dollis Valley Greenwalk and passes through Northway Gardens and the Hampstead Garden Suburb (not actually a Hampstead suburb).
You walk through East Finchley Station, Cherry Tree Wood and then Highgate. Over Muswell Road is Queen's Wood. Once Gravelpit and Churchyard Bottom Wood, the two woodlands were once part of the Forest of Middlesex and very ancient.
The last leg is along Parkland Walk. The route between Finsbury Park and Highgate was constructed originally by the Edgware, Highgate and London Railway in the 1860s. Finally dismantled in 1972, it is a nature reserve.
Finsbury Park could not have arrived soon enough and a right turn takes you to the station.
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