Castles in the Sky

HEATHFIELD TO NORMANS BAY VIA VINE CROSS, FOUL MILE, COWBEECH, HERSTMONCEUX, WINDMILL HILL, WARTLING AND NORTHEYE

Big gaps on my overall walking map often occur around areas that are awkward to get to and awkward to get across. Hurray for a walk that has both levels of awkward. Less hurray for a landscape that seems out to do me wrong and a pre-planned route that drains my phone battery, leaving me at its peril. Scooping up some little settlements, straddling the High and Low Weald, the route is less than direct and on paths that might not be so popular with anyone other than local dogwalkers. The OS survey does not appear to appreciate the level of tree and hedgerow this area has to offer, Some boundaries, ponds and buildings are overlooked. All in all, I felt fair abandoned and unwelcome, at times. Small diversions are made, electric fences impeded my passage and a lack of signage tried to persuade me to abandon my effort. To cap it all, I blundered into my old nemesis of the Levels. Deceptively flat and enticingly close to the sea, it was an effort to maintain my composure, avoiding livestock and inpenetrable lines of watery ditches. The last leg was made as the sun set and I was made mapless. A roady diversion, when I couldn't find the path, at least brought me out to the calmness of the sea. Let's not forget a cluster of good woods, a castle and the otherworldliness of the verdigris domes at the Science Observatory.

Heathfield from Burgess Hill, in my mind, has an appalling distance to time ratio. Take a train to Haywards Heath and switch to the 31 bus to Heathfield. Return from Norman's Bay is infrequent but easier via Wivelsfield.

Get off on Heathfield High Street. Cross the road and walk back to The Twitten. This passage follows and continues the old Cuckoo Line, the defunct railway from Eridge to Polegate. You come across the Heathfield Tunnel which has some interpretation. The tunnel, next to the skate park was reopened to walkers in June of this year but appears to be closed again now. On to Station Approach and Thorny Close, to rejoin the route. The Trail and 21 cycle route goes from Heathfield and extends to Shinewater Park in Eastbourne. Follow this as far as Old Ghyll Road where you go now southeast.

Cross into Sandy Cross Lane and onto the byway going south. This dissolves into a well-walked grassy trail, all the way to a five-way junction at Sapperton Wood. Take the path into it and explore. This I found to be very nice indeed with plenty of birdsong and fungi to keep me interested. Leave the wood at the southern corner and climb the hill above Springdale Farm. Now go east into Nettlesworth Wood and take the single footpath through it to the Lane. This features on the Wealden Walks selection of routes. It was far too early to make use of The Brewers Arms or eateries in Vines Cross. Head north, instead and at Boring Farm, go east. Bear southwards a little, away from the track and ascend the hill. Some very tired rams lay on the grass. Maybe they wer just bored. Enter the end of the wood and then cross to the other side of the hedge. Descend to the footbridge at the stream, a tributary of the Cuckmere and ascend the next hill to Warbleton Church. Just near here, iron-master, Richard Woodman had his forge. He is known as one of the martyrs burnt at the stake in Lewes. The revival of the story of these unfortunate protestants has led to peculiar commemorations in Sussex, at around bonfire night. Effigies of hated figures are regularly burnt and popes are beaten up.  On to Join Church Hill and go south, bearing east the junction, towards Rushlake Green.

I guess it was about here that I started to feel unwanted. The path south of the road is difficult to locate at Kingsley Hill but follow the drive and bear right and all is well. I think the fingerpost was lobbed in a hedge. You will see a stile with a footpath marker upon it. Cross the fields, taking care to keep following the paths. The cloying musk of Himalayan Balsam was more than distracting along the edge of the water. At the crossroads, descend the hill and go into the wood. Leave the damp undergrowth and take the edge of the field, turning left before the hedge to go southeast. Take to edge of the hill, on the bridleway above the Blackhurst Gill and switch back suddenly at the next junction to take a footpath up the hill.

I don't entirely recall how I made it through here, only that a vaulted a gate at one point until I made it to Moieties Farm. Here I found the lawn being mowed and I awkwardly skirted the pond, hunting with my eyes for the next sign. The path was forthcoming. Turn away from Foul Mile and head towards Gutter Wood. I'm pretty sure I followed some signs other than the footpath but made it back on track to emerge into the grounds at Sheepwash Bridge. This is the land of black woods, forges and pond bays. It speaks of an industrial age of woodspeople, iron and charcoal. Cross the hedge line to make it out on the onto Hammer Lane. Turn right then left into a tree avenue and bridleway. After the barn at Blackford Farm, bear left and left again. Be sure to enter the holly bush at the edge of the wood before Cowbeech.

The Merry Herriers was shrouded in scaffolding and still too early for a stop. Go north then right at the fork towards Trolliloes. On the bend, vault the gate into the field and head across. Abandonment ensued. Make your way to Trolliloes Bridge and Shrieks Lane. I thought it would be nice following the Trolliloes Stream but that mountain invader was abundant here, also. The official path veers north to join another going east and Hole Farm. From here, follow the track, as it weaves between the buildings and becomes a byway going east. Trolliloes Stream becomes Pebsham.

Once over Chilsham Lane, enter the field, cross the hedgeline and the path on the ground. The footpath enters the trees on the side of the hill and curves away from the stream south westward, over time. Over the hill to Nunningham Farm. Having been warned with a serial-killer scratchy biro about the cattle and the cows with calves 'at foot', I cheated and avoided the startled-looking mothers by walking through the farmyard.

Bagham Lane emerges on the roundabout at Herstmonceux. I had a most excellent stop at Geo's. I then chose to walk Gardner Street, the original name of the village, to Chapel Row. Turn south here then east, at the footpath near Lime End Farm. You can just see the windmill at Windmill Hill and so go closer to rejoin the main road. Go east and then cross the green to join the Comphurst Lane and bridleway going south. Take the next left and you'll see a glimpse of a dome ahead. This is the Observatory Science Centre and recently saved from closure. You will enter The Park and see some magnificent elderly chestnut trees. Milk parsley and cornish moneywort are two rare species found here. After a lake and a plantation, you enter a field where the domes become more apparent. Join the road at the other side and follow the directions south to the 1066 Country Walk, going west. Beyond the trees to south of the path is a dome I'd never noticed before. This is, or once was, the Isaac newton Telescope. A history of the The Royal Greenwich Observatory at Herstmonceux and Herstmonceux Castle can be found here. The latter you get a glimpse of, a little further on.

Leave the bridleway and go south. Continue to Wartling, cross the churchyard and go immediately out of the back and onto to the footpath in the field opposite. A sea breeze did its best effort to blow the whiff of cow away from me and the Levels were now in front of me. Drop down the hill and out via the track next to the trees. Cross the field to Horsewalk and go over the Horse Bridge. This spans Wallers Haven. Go immediately south and east to join the path going south. No great anxieties here. The path joins the western side of the Waterlot Stream before reaching the Lamb Inn. Here, my intention had been to go to Pevensey on the Old Marsh Road but I found the way blocked by bramble. It becomes a proper route, it seems, much later on. I decided then to backtrack the A259 and turn right to Hooe Level. This was almost as equally brambly but I persisted as I had little choice.

Old saltworks are to your left and right. The brambles gave way and after crossing a gated bridge, a new enemy appeared. Cow mothers and offspring eyed me suspiciously. There is nowhere to go as ditches bound the fields on all sides. Steeling myself, I found myself semi-relieved that most were too scared to remain, once I began walking. The land between here and Chapel field is their domain and as they scattered in my wake, my blood ran cold as I heard their hooves gathering behind me. I dared not turn about but made myself big with my arms as I neared the earth bridge beyond. All adrenalin was used to remain walking and for my eyes to dart about, looking for exits. A five way junction marks the spot of a ruined medieval village of Northeye.

Shortly after this junction, with the earthworks a little visible on the rise, my phone gave up. Always carry a paper map with you. Ahem. The ocean was just within reach but the water here was still barring my way. We are less than 20 feet above sea level. A field of cows and sheep was accessible on my left and to the south, I could see the pumping station. I wandered about a little, hoping for a sign - an actual sign. Instead, the largest body of water, in the shape of Waller's Haven, blocked my southern passage and so I braved the cows. Heading to the nearest mark of civilisation, in the form of fencing, I found a track to the Star Inn. There was only mild motherly snorting from the cows.

Embarrassed to walk backwards and forwards on the road in front of a stag party, looking for a southward path, I plumped for following the road to cross the railway tracks. I was vaguely aware my surroundings, having been here before but with adrenalin still coursing, I went the longer route east. You can make this a whole lot shorter by following the road west and crossing Waller's Haven twice and immediately going south on a footpath to go over the tracks and meet the England Coast Path. Instead I went along the Sluice Road to Herbrand Walk and climbed onto the beach at sunset.

Jogging back westward, I knew my exit was at hand and there was much relief. I asked a couple for directions, to be sure, joined the Norman's Bay Road, passed the caravan site and took the coast road north to the station. The sun set, the night sky was suddenly upon me, the earth and water all around. Tomorrow is Burgess Hill's bonfire procession and fireworks. One of many that stretch through to the 5th November.