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After the searing heat of my European sojourn, a period of blowy wet weather back in the UK and the end of the school holidays, Autumn feels as if it has plummeted upon us with an acorny crunch. This first week back after a hiatus was immaculately timed for a sunshiny day with just a whiff of ripened fruits and bleached grassland. It does feel abundant out there. The haws and sloes are vibrant, seed heads needingly present their silhouettes as you walk east and the ground is strewn with wind-felled tree fruits that crackle underfoot.
If the following choice of paths feel a little idiosyncratic (when are they ever not), it is because we're filling in the gaps and spanning the special hills south of Wilmington. These are, of course, the curves of the South Downs National Park and I felt a requirement after some Low Weald tramping. There are oblique views only of the Wilmington Man, I avoid the South Downs Way and shun the Seven Sisters. This makes this route less of a classic but don't be too early to dismiss it. A small variation was enough for a different perspective and I was not disappointed. What I find an attractive part of the Downs was clearly attractive to early man. The place is littered with the revered dead.
With the new season, the fungi is not quite at its peak in the forest but the sinuous hill-fingers are still displaying the floral riches of the chalk grassland. The sea carries you out and beyond, as you top the headland. A final potter amongst the rockpools and a late ice-cream, round things off nicely. Happy two-year-walking anniversary.
Just as cheap to buy a return to Eastbourne as two separate single legs, the train is disconcertingly not really that cheap. It is though, the most sensible option from Burgess Hill. Achieve this via Haywards Heath and back via Brighton.
The morning mist lay in pools and bathed the bottoms as I passed through on the train. To the south of the railtrack is the familiar scarp and slope of the South Downs. Although entirely hidden from here, with only a short rise from the dewy valley, you are rewarded with the presentation of the sea.
From the station, join the Station Road north. By the garage, take the footpath east through the paddock. This is also marked as The Cuckmere Pilgrim Path. There are two paths here but bear slightly north through the gate and head up the hill. As you rise, you will see Arlington Reservoir on your left. The sun was in my eyes as I navigated the breakfasting mini horses but the ground was golden. The gentle but early hill was just what I needed. When you reach the bridleway, turn left then quickly right on the footpath over the fence. You are just outside the reservoir, in an area managed as a reserve. At the Chilver Bridge Road, continue on the footpath, just on the right side. This will very slightly avoid the traffic and chop the corner. Cross the Cuckmere River, continue eastward beyond Endlewick Farm, on the byway known as Moorshill Lane. A footpath crosses this tree-tunnel, a bit further on, and you take the southern part towards the level-crossing. Take care and continue beside the field to exit onto another byway. Turn left towards the waterworks but bear right through the gate onto the footpath now funnelling you south. You pass some cottages before crossing the Lewes Road.
Turn left and cross The Street. This would take you directly to the Long Man pub and Wilmington but continue now on the footpath on the right. When you reach the bridleway, join it. You can follow the edge of the field to the west then south or curve the hill to the gate. Now turn right on the byway. The mature beech tree signals the turn right onto The Wealdway. You are within the South Downs National Park and on your right is access land. The beautiful Exmoor ponies multiplied as I climbed. They were gently grooming. with their primordially ombréd behinds perfectly set against an evocative neolithic, grazed landscape. Take the path on the left as it ascends Wilmington Hill.
As I reached the top, the sea twinkled its invitation in the distance. Turn left on the edge of the access land. Cross the fence line when you are able to continue to the trig. Views of the serene sea abound. Alone as I was, I received an enveloping sense of lofty peace. Go through the gate and turn right to continue with the ridge and the edge of the access land. A walk north would take you to Hunters Burgh Long Barrow - one for another time. Folkington is below to your left and near Polegate, the Shepham Wind Farm stood still. Continue with the fence down to the Wealdway. Just when you thought your right to roam would run out, a heavily engineered stile and steps deliver you safely and conveniently onto the byway.
Having joined the Wealdway, very quickly leave it on the footpath on your left. I could hear a friendly German Shepherd breathing at my heels. The path briefly joins Ash Lane before its continuation rejoins the Wealdway. Here you turn left and at the junction with the Jevington Road, turn right. The Eight Bells is on your right. I reached here bang on 10 o'clock for a coffee and the poshest bacon roll you'll ever need.
Continue south on the right side of the road to join the footpath. This will take you to the church, where I was greeted by many dogs pausing on their morning walks. Join Church Lane, the only one of two bits of the South Downs Way you'll walk on. Rejoin the Jevington Road and continue. Take the bridleway, signposted on the right and slowly ascend this arrow-true chalk path. Quick as you like, you're in Friston Forest. This is the largest area of recently established forest in South East England. The largely beech woodland was planted in the 1930s and 40s to convert agricultural land to forest and protect the water supply for developing Eastbourne. There are many trails through here for walkers and bikers and the latter are indicated on the ground. For simplicity, I took the bridleway in and then south over Snap Hill. I did duck into the trees as I found the woods surprisingly quiet. I hoped I could make up for the lack of birdsong with the spectacle of feasting fungi on dead things. I was mildly successful and got myself a little off track.
The bridleway enters a clearing at Friston Hill and runs alongside Butchershole Bottom. Friston Place is on the right. At Wannock Road, you can go straight over to the Willingdon Road. Now heading south, you pass the striking 1930 Friston Water Tower. Take the footpath on the right of the Old Willingdon Road to reach the junction. Head over to the historic Friston Pond and take a look at the church before leaving by the back gate on the bridleway.
This is Hobb's Eares, a meadow and the northernmost area of open access National Trust land that stretches to the sea. Further east is Upper Street and you are upon the surprising green square of East Dean. Take your pick for lunch. The Tiger Inn beckoned.
Leave via the Village Green Lane and north on Gilbert Drive. I actually ended up walking in the wrong direction towards The Fridays, an apt reference to my weekly excursions. Back on track, turn right at the junction and find the bridleway at the road sign on the right. A perfectly timed crossing brought me away from the traffic. Follow the fence line and go through the gate at the flint of New Barn. Descend to Bramble and then Wigden's Bottom. Here I removed my footwear and extricated the many burrs that had attached themselves to my socks and trousers.
A sign points you helpfully up hill to Beachy Head. It is difficult to discern the bridleway but round the trees and carefully pick your way across what might be termed 'Bramble Top', towards the fence. Carry on southwards until you reach the bridleway on West Way. This goes east and divides with one leg heading towards the cliffs. I had to step over an electric fence to reach the gate by the car park on Beachy Head Road. Cross it and follow the one of many paths going east. Find the trig point at Beachy Head and then head south and down steeply to the edge of the cliff.
At this point, I was very glad to be walking down the hill rather than the other way round. You are now on the King Charles III England Coast Path. This track doubles as the SDW and trebles as the Wealdway. Keep to the path closest to the cliff until a switchback takes you along and down to Cow Gap. If you've timed this well with the tides, you can drop down to the beach, head west to Falling Sounds and then go to Eastbourne via Holywell.
The late afternoon sunlight made for obvious photographic conditions for views of the lighthouse. At some distance, several seals bobbed in the waves. I joyfully popped my fingers amongst the anemones before hopping the chalky boulders and groynes to the prom. As you round the Martello Tower, you can make your way over King Edwards Parade and towards the station via Cornfield Terrace, Road and Terminus Road. I never did get that ice-cream.
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