For Art's Sake
A uniformly overcast and drizzly day lay ahead. The Cass Sculpture park shut in 2020 and I wanted an excuse to visit the Art Foundation that opened this year. Alongside this, I wanted an excuse to be able to walk the Goodwood Estate. Few useful paths cross the flinty furrows of this part of West Sussex but instead the old routes, walked by many long-forgotten feet have become roady. However, accessing the 17th century land of the Duke of Richmond, can be made by permissive paths that are hidden from view on an OS map.
Chichester gives thoughts of Roman occupation, long ancient roadways
and much of the landscape is flat and as uniform as was the weather. Consequently, the cathedral can makes its presence known from quite a
distance. Extended straight journeys might feel tiresome but you could instead enjoy the contast that the physical punctuation of anything can make on this walk. Sculptures, like people are no different, sometimes responding to the environment, sometimes presenting a hard edge against the nature that surrounds them.
Much of the day was a not unpleasant hazy mix of my tired surprise. Cruelly, an overnight mosquito had bitten my face and my ring finger and it was not an exaggeration to say that both bites overreacted in a way that almost shut an eye and attempted to restrict the circulation in my hand. This is a walk undeterred, showing one's best side and making the best of things, despite incongruity.
Barnham is an awkward trailhead but gives you some necessary distance from Goodwood and Chichester. Take a train via Brighton and towards Southampton for a quick connection. Chichester is on the same line but might also be reached from the north with a change at Barnham.
You might choose to do this walk backwards but I felt that Chichester provided more of a triumphal finish. That's not to say Barnham does not have its charms. For provision of food outlets, Barnham out-performs its size. From the station, bear west and check it out. Take the first footpath offered on the left of Barnham road to reach the school. Cross the entrance and continue on the path by the fence. You will exit into the field. To the south, there is very little all the way to the sea at Bognor. a straight line ensues. Your ultimate route route will parallel the main road but connect a couple of churches and culminate in the remains of a priory. Spread your mind out across the fields and enjoy, as I did, the simplicity.
Continue to Church Lane and turn left. You will reach Manor Farm on your left. This is a conservation area and contains the listed granary on its staddle stones. Behind this is the Eastergate church. To me this looked largely victorian but parts are 11th and 13th century. I couldn't go in but I saw the herringbone brickwork, referencing or maybe of origin rooted in Roman occupation. There seems quite a bit of uncertainty around the whole farm complex but things could look different in the future with the land beyond earmarked for housing.
A little further and the school kids were piling into the school. The lane was clogged with cars. Another unusual juxtaposition, this time of primary school and pub. The Wilkes Head is named after the local parliamentary reformer John Wilkes. It is here that you cross the Eastergate Rife, going west just after the pub car park and following the path south and then west. The staff at Ormiston Academy took a sneaky fag break by the footpath. You will soon emerge onto Ivy Lane, where you continue west. Over the crossing on Westergate, the path continues and a footbridge takes you on another field walk to exit on to the curve of Hook Lane. This area was once within an old deer park, converted to common land and then enclosed. Aldingbourne was on the route of the old rife but after the Black Death, the settlement moved east. It's difficult imagine a populated area here but it was prestigious enough to be the site of the Bishop's Palace and a Norman security tower. Go directly over Oving Road to St Mary's Church.
After a visit, take to church road and then go left and on the bridleway called Marsh Lane. The track will merge with Nyton Lane and go right at the junction with the dual-carriageway. Follow the crossing points to continue on Eartham Road. At Crockerhill, bear left on the footpath towards the Tinwood Estate and the vines. Keep in a rough westerly direction. You may catch sight of the Boxgrove Priory ruins and the square tower of what is now the parish church. Go south, briefly and turn the corner to the church gate. You can now go through and try and imagine things as they may have been. The now church, 11th century in parts is worth a visit. On my visit there, a couple of Henry hoovers were busy on the modern stone floor - a big task.
Once onto The Street, go north and join the footpath continuing this way. There is an interpretation board in the car park opposite which describes Halnaker Windmill Trail. You might choose to visit and walk up the famed tree-tunnel but today, I was leaving it alone. At the junction, go straight over Stane Street and you see an impressive-looking entrance to the Goodwood Estate Farm Shop. Pass this and continue north on the bridleway. Continue past another flinty estate gatepost, through the trees and ignore the slippy chalk road left of the bridleway finger post. I didn't do this but slipped my way up the track until I spotted the footpath merging with it from the woods. As you turn the corner, through the gates, be sure to look back at the windmill on the horizon.
At New Barn Hill, turn left and enter the Goodwood Art Foundation at the flinty wall. There is a great incentive to walk or cycle here; a whopping two-thirds off the entry price. It was £5 anyway because the gallery is preparing for the Winter Season but the sculpture park is nice to walk round and cafe is super fancy. There are views to the sea and the soap in the toilets smells divine.
Return to the road and continue down the hill. The Goodwood Estate showcase a couple of walks through here but I came across some permissive paths not marked on the right. Having started on the 'red route' I found myself spat back out at the Hotel, so I ventured back in behind it to the driveway of the House. Here I began on the blue route but left via the avenue of trees to South Lodges. Walk awkwardly down Kennel Hill, over the roundabout and take the next left into Westerton Lane. Leave the road at the bridleway and join Sidengreen Lane, on the right. Go right onto the footpath behind the Rolls Royce works. Another awkward walk from the roundabout on to Madgewick Lane and then right on the start of the most boring bit of our journey and the bridleway. You will skirt the aerodrome and motor racing circuit.
When you are almost at the road, a well-walked track appears on the left. Take it and you will cut the corner to rejoin the West Sussex Literary Trail. Do as the Romans and take a pretty straight line into Chichester and through the park. As you leave the car park at Chichester Festival Hall, use the subway and go south on North Street. The station is at the far end. There was something particularly nice in travelling this way.
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