Chalking Figuratively
A minor miscalculation in planning, meant that I curated a reasonable distance that has some rather superb contrasts in landscape. There are the chalk hills of The Downs, a meandering river and some ancient and later examples of human expression on the slopes. All very do-able on a Winter's day. This walk included some bits I really like, some breathtaking and the jeopardy of walking in 'access areas' with 'right-to-roam'. You might feel justified when indicated on the OS map but you can't always be sure of the terrain, entry or exit and the livestock that may reside within these sacred plots. There may be much to persuade you not to bother but occasionally it is very worthwhile to connect some special places and possibly to go off the beaten track. None of this was particularly thought about when I plotted a journey to fill my own right of way walking gaps. That is the joy of it.
Glynde is reached via Haywards Heath by train in an hour. A return to Berwick will cover you as it is a stop more on the same line but it does seem more expensive than it should be. It was worth it and it should be for you.
Luckily the jumble of incorrect on-board train announcements was not too off-putting. There are many platforms reached only by being in the correct carriages and almost every word spoken over the tanoy did not concern this important detail but deployed a string of irrelevent messages including the alarming information I could pay for my ticket by cheque, of all things.
My exit from the station, despite the darkness, was swift. I had made this journey only a couple of weeks before. Up the steps and on to the road, go south on the Station Road. Pass The Trevor Arms, reopened in July and continue straight. Cross the A27 and just continue up the Beddingham Hill. Do not make it all the way to the top but when you spot the metal gate on the left, very near the top, climb over it, take to the curve of the hill and admire the northward views. This is access land and offered a different route to Blackcap Farm. The radio masts are avoided but as you cross the stile, you are brought out very close to the summit. After following the very edge of the scarp, with the windswept hawthorn, Firle Beacon is prominent to the east and already some burial mounds can be dinlineated. Allow yourself to rejoin the South Downs Way before the reservoir. A quick investigation showed me that I could not exit any other way.
You are now upon Firle Beacon Car Park. Go through it and exit on the left. This was possibly the clearest day in recent times I've been here. Other visits have found the hill 'Haitchie', as the Sussex dialect and Louisa Thomsen Brits might describe it. There was a stiff southwesterly breeze and the sun was peaking through comfortingly, a bright watermelon vape under a shifting grey bandana of cloud. While the jumper had come off in the climb, the hat remained to take care of my unruly hair. There is an absolute littering of tumulae on this route, every lump and bump regularly and alarmingly representing people from the neolithic or bronze age. Just after the long barrow known as the Giant's Grave, a resting place with stories that connect it to The Long Man on Wilmington Hill and after another smaller mound, you reach the trig. A little further, I checked in with the Foundle, a lump of carved chalk by sculptor Jo Sweeting.
The scattering of hill-top runners and their accompanying dogs admired the views now out to the south and the sea. Continue a little further and then cross the fence on the marked bridleway going south. A rather straight line is plotted through the swedes towards another marked going further southwest. At the far edge of the field, ignore this and bear left to skirt it and rejoin another southward bridleway. The ferry was heading into the outsretched arm of Newhaven Harbour. The cloud had broken up a little above the town to allow the gold to splash patchily upon the clifftops. Greens and blues played on the water beyond as I descended.
Five Lord's Burgh is a bowl barrow just north of Norton Top. The name is derived from a local tradition stating it was the meeting point of five parishes. It now stands at the junction of three parishes of West Firle, Beddingham and Glynde. The stone markers refer to Lord Gage whose initial are carved upon them.
This prominent path is the Comp Track, a name that may be derived from comb, the word for a deep valley. The path curves itself on the sides of Bostal, Norton, Denton and Camp before going south on Cradle Hill. It forks south, just after Camp and the golf course. Take the bridleway to Seaford, crossing Alfriston and Eastbourne Roads. Use this for pondering and thinking. Eastbourne Road is the main no. 2 cycle path but you now go left on the alternative traffic-free one which happens to be a less than ideal footpath. Go left and then continue east to the Cuckmere valley.
The walk north is simultaneously the England Coast Path, The Vanguard Way and the Outbrook Bank of the river. At the Cuckmere Inn, cross the road bridge and now walk north on the eastern bank of the river. The walk was slippy and puddly at first but broaden into a fabulous watery landscape of geese and water birds. Greyling and Canadian geese were joined by swans, redshanks, redwings and rooks. As the water meanders, the white horse, looking greenish today swings gently into view on High and Over. The downs aside the river suggest badgers and sheep.
Ignore New Bridge and Cow Lane at Frog Firle and then leave the riverbank on the right. You are back on the SDW briefly but go left into Litlington. There are some eating options here at the pub, tea rooms and after the church and opposite the Long Man Brewery at the cyle cafe. I stopped here for some caffeination. Continue on the marked bridleway up to 115 metres. Take the opportunity to look over the valley and not take the stile on the left into the access land. This is Deep Dean and the Tenantry Ground. A favourite of mine to view from the SDW. Descend steeply on the sheep tracks to the ledge above the meterological station, then head to to the fence line to continue through the valley. As you pass through the gate, a sign perturbingly indicates 'no right of way'. Ignore this then climb directly northeast and leave the more solid track reversing back on Windover Hill.
Triumphant, vault the gate and the SDW or go and have a sit down at the the tumulus and long barrow. The views north are to Arlington Reservoir. Go through the gate marked as the Cuckmere Pilgrim Path and descend Wilmington Hill. You can't leave the hills without waving goodbye to The Long Man and so cut the corner to drop down to the lower westward bridleway and Wealdway. He is better viewed the further north you get. At The Street, follow the path west and join in all the way to the pub. You might want to note the old pound, the remains of Wilmington Priory and the ancient churchyard yew tree. I had lunch.
Backtrack to the Wealdway that goes west on a rather muddy path. At Milton Street, fed up of the wet, join it and make your way to the main road where there is a very decent path and cycle track all the way west over the Cuckmere again at Sherman Bridge and to the junction. Cross here and take Station Road north on an equally well-appointed track, all the way to Berwick Station.
Journeys back here can be a toss up between going back to Polegate or waiting for a return train. I popped in to the Berwick Inn to congratulate myself and kill the time.
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