A Bird in the Sand

PETWORTH TO WASHINGTON VIA HESWORTH COMMON, FITTLEWORTH COMMON, WALTHAM PARK AND BROOKS, AMBERLEY WILD BROOKS AND RACKHAM HILL 

 

Having had my fill of the Wealden clay and bluebell woodlands, I turned my attention to the sands of West Sussex. The recent dryness made the prospect of the Arun flood plain and a single path through the brooks less forbidding. The area is both lightly settled and attractive to bird-life and what you might lack in interest as you travel over the sedately uniform terrain, you gain from its watery isolation. A minor switch in geology is experienced at the finalé of the walk, as you level-up on the chalk of the South Downs.

An early start allows for a train to Pulborough via Three Bridges and a less frequent bus towards Midhurst. Return was via the good old 100 bus from Washington Recreation Ground.

From Petworth Market Square, backtrack east along New and Angel Street until you can take the footpath off to the right. You will enter a field at Sheep Downs, as you bear south with the pylons and with the houses on your right. The Arun is down below you on your left as you reach Haslingbourne Lane via someone's driveway. Cross and continue over another field and go directly south. At the track and T junction, turn left. The bin lorry was throwing up dust in the direction of the farm and I felt my way along behind it. Cross the stile and turn with the ditch until you cross it at the road. Some languid cows varied their relative poses on the hilly field on my left and as I reached the road, they reponded to the horseriders by hopefully nuzzling the gate for attention.

Take to the tarmac in a continuation south. At the sign for High Hoes, take the track up this small rise by the house and continue now east to ford another tributary at Woodruff's farm and reach Hesworth Common Lane. Unsurprisingly, turning left takes you into Hesworth Common. There is a mix of trees and a trig point to find amongst the gorse and heather. There are numerous routes but from the high point, follow the Serpent Trail roughly east and left to Lower Street. Here Fittleworth church nestles.

Return to the junction (if you've taken a nosy), continue east over School Lane and eventually into Fittleworth Common. Again, you can follow a number of paths to the southern edge. I was rather surprised to find a bamboo grove amongst a number of tagged trees. Follow Sandy Lane right at a copper beech. You and the tree can look south and down to the Rother. Take the footpath on the left which will send you south via the edge of the field. As I climbed the stile to the track going west to Lower Street, I heard the endearing squeaky peewit call of a lapwing. A pair were swooping over the field at Street Farm.

Go south on what is the Serpent Trail and cross the Rother. Continue to the next footpath on the left that enters the trees of Waltham Park. Leave on the track that continues south but do not miss the footpath after, that goes left and turns south through Watersfield Common. Here I had a magical moment of my first cuckoo of the year, nightingales and as I stepped of the stile, a tawny owl flew directly over my head. I wish you that experience. Continue into Watersfield and cross the main road.

Opposite is River Lane and at its end, follow the footpath and take the next right. Enter Waltham Brooks Nature Reserve and go over the level crossing. More cuckoos. You have choices but I followed the northern edge before turning right to ford the river at Greatham Bridge. Go immediately right on the far bank of the Arun and the Wey South Path.

There is but one path from this point that will take you through the literal Amberley Wild Brooks. My memory of this path is finding myself very suddenly up to a knee in the peaty bog. At the stile there was a small but significant puddling. No bother, I thought. A single step had me repeat my action and leave the place with a fully submerged and brown lower leg. It seems an appeasement to the river gods or a sacrifice to what ever folk legend allows passage through this special place.

If you are fortunate, you will rise out of the swamp and into Amberley itself. The place was heaving with wisteria and thatch. I stopped at the Black Horse for exceptional service and fancy food. It went down well.

The last push is east onto Rackham Road and further on to the footpath on the bend. At Rackham Street go south past the farm, with the Downs in front. Cross the main road and a little to the left, take the bridleway up Rackham Hill. The afternoon had become hazy but views are extensive.

You are on the South Downs Way. Go east and after Springhead Hill, continue on the bridleway to bag the trig at Kithurst Hill. It is difficult to phycically get behind the fence but enjoy the height of the hill before taking the bridleway directly south the rejoin the SDW. At Barnsfarm Hill, a corn bunting sang from a dead tree and the signpost north that leads down the bridleway to Washington. At Rowdell go east to cross the Washington Bypass and enter the village. Left on London Road will bring you to the bus stop.