Downs with a Splash
A deeply satisfying expedition from home with few surprises but, would you believe, still some paths relatively unwalked. Some rights of way are not naturally convenient to anywhere but here they offer a different perspective, particularly on one of my favourite and underrated hills. Wolstonbury looks good from the Burgess Hill lowlands and is good on top when misty or clear. While within the National Park, being just off the South Downs Way, it doesn't always get a look-in but even after the continuing heatwave, its quarried, pockmarked surface and wildflower charms offer you all the attractive insects and accompanying bird life. I return here, not for novelty but to mop up further routes and enjoy the ultimate finale of a refreshing submersion. Views are 360 and this is just one of many on a string of geologically scooped and sculpted chalk hills, linked somewhat counter-intuitively, all the way to the sea.
The walk had me mulling over rights of way and rights to roam. Much of the walk is simply a route to the sea and makes full use of ancient ways and modern access land. Furthermore, some trails are well established on the Green Circle, that envelops Burgess Hill. People will find a way.
The walk can begin from the station or the London Road bus stop. Return was by train via Brighton.
Taking the footpath south, on the East side of Burgess Hill station, will bring you to the railway bridge, much famed and enjoyed for waving at trains. Just saying. Continue west over it to walk alongside Nightingale Meadows. At the road, proceed north through the trees on this bridleway. Cross the road carefully to continue on The Green Circle. You can leave the main path at the open area which is Hammonds Meadow. Cross the meadow obliquely to join the footpath going south. There are many paths in this area to enjoy the green spaces and before Scotches Farm, you can visit the pond. I found the gate open and a very rickety set of steps led me to a jetty. You get your first glimpses of Wolstonbury, in the distance, its hazy form was impressing in the morning glow. The accompanying static of the warming grasshoppers, pre-empted a hot day in the blanching meadows.
Cross the stile and circuit the field by the farm to continue southwest across the horsey field. You now cross the Herrings Stream that once fed a line of watermills. Continue over the next field with Hurst College and the church ahead. At the far edge, leave through the gate and turn left on a bridleway. Take the next footpath on the right and observe the field edges with the splendid mature oak trees. At the far side, the path turns southeast. As you traverse to the bridleway, otherwise Mill Lane, you spot Clayton Wickham Farm on the foothills. The ancient manor of Wickham is of Saxon origin but a Roman settlement existed in this area. The line of Roman roads in this area has been much debated with many a discovery, turnpike, robbed material, or earlier route, confusing the situation.
The path takes you the other side of the farm and to Belmont Lane. Continue west and south on the tarmac. Cross Wickham Hill and continue on what is the parish boundary. Just over the road, I took the opportunity to check out the field on the left, the entrance of which is provided by the ever helpful Monday Group. Continue south. Wolstonbury is working it here, on your right, once again. Traverse southeast. At the far field edge, go west and south again. At Coldharbour Farm, you get more good views as you turn right on the footpath to Hautboyes. The swallows were diving over the field, lining up on the wires and returning to nests at the outbuildings.
Go south on New Way Lane and turn left a little on the bend to join a cut through on the right to the wooded slopes of the hill itself. A National Trust sign announces your first major hill, today. As hills go, Burgess Hill has little to speak of, with a rise of around 25 metres, at its centre. Turn left and bear right to takes some steps up on the slope within Ashen Plantation. Continue to bear right until you can exit the trees on your left. You now begin the climb to a sudden 206 metres. The grass was a bee party, painted purple with wild marjoram and yellow agrimony. I sat and surveyed. Further on it was round-headed rampion and restharrow and the rear ends of a pair of young cows, heavily invested in a hawthorn clump.
At the trig, I wish you good views to the windmills and The Downs. The hubbub of gossiping runners paused briefly before descending on the footpath, as I did, to the south. Chalk Hill blues, bobbed along also, to orient me amongst the heavy presence of brown and orange butterflies. At the bridleway, cross the stile and turn left. With Wellcombe Bottom on your left, Wolstonbury waves goodbye over your shoulder. Turn right at the crossroads to go south into Pyecombe. The church is worth a stop here for its unique ironwork and facilities. Otherwise turn right on Church Hill to join the South Downs Way. Follow the signs to cross the A23. Wayfield Farm offers its services to the right but past muddy and brambly experiences of Cow Down, has done much to persuade me that Haresdean is the better option. It also allows you a more open enjoyment of the National Trust slopes before Newtimber.
At the summit of West Hill and a welcome bench, turn right on the edge of the access land to where a bridleway crosses your path. A permissive route has opened up to allow you to join Newtimber Hill, as your bear left, away from the boundary. Take the track beyond the summit and dew pond to where a pair of large trees stand. Make your way on right side of North Hill and over some earthworks to an old quarry edge. Excellent views of Devil's Dyke are ahead. This area is a hot spot for orchids and chalk-loving flowers. Descend on the eastern side to the bridleway into Saddlescombe. You can visit the donkey wheel here and/or take a stop at the Wildflower Cafe, for a treat and a water refill. I had lunch surrounded by pecking chickens and the gossiping runners, I'd met earlier. A hummingbird hawkmoth was doing the rounds of the garden.
Now at the Saddlescombe Road, Cross it. I had intended taking the bridleway that follows the road west but dropped down to avoid the cows sheltering in the trees. Follow the path beyond the pumping station to the waters edge. I startled a fluffy grouse chick that crossed my path. The alarmed mother suddenly and heroically rounded on me and fell to running ahead for some distance. I was glad when she returned.
Continue at the edge of the water to walk past the Forge Garage and join The Street in Poynings. Turn left and then take Dyke Lane to ascend the bridleway steeply. Somehow I missed a permissive path on the left, to follow the lower slopes but continued on the footpath towards the top. If also missing the top of Devil's Dyke is too perverse, feel free to keep going up but I was after the paths on the side of the South Downs. The National Trust path will join the contour line of the earthworks, with the Bomb House standing to attention on your left. Continue westward to Fulking Hill. This summit is the same height as Wolstonbury and just a little lower than the top of the Dyke.
Yes, I did do this diversion; Follow the Sussex Border Path to the gate but switch back on a footpath going north on the ridge, barrow and bridleway. I took the right-hand chalky path going west to the line of pylons. Just before the top of Perching Hill, you will have passed the site of an old isolation hospital known as Fulking Grange, just one piece of the archaeology to be found here. This fell into ruin after the Canadian soldiers burnt it down after WWII but had been used at the turn of the century for those with smallpox.
Take the stile marked with the lightning bolt and walk with the marching giants south to Perchinghill Barn. Again, the hummingbird hawkmoths took the trip with me, alongside the sunflowers. To the east, is the remains of the medieval village of Perching, a manor of some importance, at one time. After Tenant Hill, there is a derelict building and the path swings its way south on a byway to Hazelholt Bottom. Climb over the stile and enter the scrub via a brambly track going west. Persistence will have you out at Thunders Barrow. The Monarch's Way will take you south to Southwick Hill. The trig is through the gate and amongst the gorse, if you must bag it.
Now go west across the earthworks towards Mossy Bottom Barn. Turn left on the byway, before you get there. The track turns a corner towards the A27. Take the the bridleway to cross the Shoreham Bypass at Slonk Hill. You are now in the Buckingham area of north Shoreham.
Take Downside on you right and then Parkside or Buckingham Park itself, south. I stopped at Tesco for more drink. At the bottom of the park, go west and then south on Buckingham Road. This will take you into old Shoreham, after the railway station. A right will take you to the church where it's south on East Street towards the sea. Cross the road and then go over the Adur via the footbridge. Ferry Road is a direct route to the boardwalk.
A little to the right is the swimming area, of which I took full advantage. The pebbles are a pain but the water was fabulous. I got out only when a large group of end-of-termers exuberantly entered the water. Back to the station and with an ice-cream in hand.
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