The Go-Between
Today might not have been the best day for travel, it being a day of train industrial action but an early start was had to attempt to mop up this area. The intention was to cover the middle bits not done on this walk and this one, with a Roman villa to boot but I may have underestimated the meander on the river Arun. Blisters were developed on this hot day and at 18 miles, Amberley Station reached out and pulled me close, whispering that the trains home were also messed up and I should get moving. So there is another walk nestled in there for the future...
For all my minor woes, the walk is pleasant enough, with great contrast in landscape from beach, to river, to woods and hills. It is largely flat and few references to a map are required. However, the weather was both beautiful and mildly oppressive. My walk was dominated by needing a wee then needing a drink and, at about 14 miles, wanting to raise my hot swollen feet above my head. I had some great wildlife moments as well.
The train from Burgess Hill to Littlehampton is usually a straightforward option. The day attempted saw a change at Brighton but this is not always required. I had intended coming back from Arundel. Amberley is also on the same line. This means Three Bridges is the route for a return. You could do this walk in reverse, with an ice-cream finish at the beach. This sounds fitting but, in my experience, I have often found a dash to public transport cuts short my enjoyment and so I got this the seaside in the bag quickly. You could ditch the beach loop entirely but a start at Littlehampton has little else to offer.
From the station, go right, then immediately left to join the River Road. Heading upstream, cross the swing bridge. Back down, on the opposite bank, take Rope Walk to the West Beach Cafe. You're on the England Coast Path. This will guide you past the toilets and Littlehampton Fort, on a boardwalk to the beach. The tide was out and the sand peaceful, save for some photogenic dog walkers. Seagulls and crows were joined by surprising meadow pipits and the rosy glint of linnets. West beach with its sea kale and sand lizards is backed by dunes that are both protected and stunted by the golf course behind.
Leaving the coast path that heads west, turn inland and behind the golf. This narrow path was surprisingly dewy and damp but the heat sufficient to dry my legs soon after. Back at Rope Walk. Return to the bridge and take the road to the marina. Keep following the footpath between the caravans to the water's edge. There was a little manoeuvre after the marina to avoid a puddle on the road beyond the underpass but after, you'll hug the river all the way to Arundel.
Join The Slipe and then Tarrant Street in attractive Arundel. At around 8 miles, this might be a good stop for a cafe. I used the excellent facilities at the carpark, as signposted before joining the High Street from Crown Yard. Back over the river via Queen Street, join the footpath going north on the opposite bank.
You'll leave the river and as you cross the railtrack, you'll be on the Monarch's Way. You can follow these signs onto Crossbush Lane and into the trees at the Angmering Park Estate. Stick to this as you navigate the interlocking slopes before rising into Wepham Woods. The path becomes a road through the majestic shady beech trees. At Michelgrove Park, leave the route of king Charles II's flight and go north on the escarpment with great views east towards Harrow Hill. The trig at Barpham Hill is reached once you turn the corner. I stopped on this route to eat a large juicy apple, the only water I had left. I encountered bees swarming as I reached this high point. They were a marvel.
Descending to Wepham Down, go left and then choose the route north, leaving the gallops of the Amberley Stud behind. This enclosed route will take you to Rackham Hill. A stoat lolloped and paused on the path in front of me. If you need to bag another trig, go northeast at the junction and join the South Downs Way going west but I did northwest to join this major route all the way down to the Wey South Path and the road. My hot feet had clearly been rubbing and I had reached my limit. Bignor would have to wait.
Crossing New Barn Road, you can enter Amberley. The Tea Room is welcome, there is also the village store and The Black Horse. The Amberley Black Horse had finished serving food about half hour before and so I chugged a coke and headed back on New Barn Road which joins the South Downs Way, once again, towards Amberley station. Defeated, like the king, a giant swiss roll would have to suffice on my battle home.
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