A Limp Off the Chart
A walk I'd had in hand for a while, a lack of inspiration drove me to manifest. The chilly start and the woodiness of it, I found surprising. I'd tried to plan a traverse with some elevation and the views are far-reaching south but a little hazy on this occasion. As it is, the route is largely upon the Greensand Way before the plunge to Tonbridge. Aside from the last, less than satisfactory, half run into town, there are many places to which I'd like to return. Consider this an overly long taster with a satisfying lumpiness.
The Greensand Ridge is just south of the chalky North Downs and represents an exposed and more resistant sandstone layer of an eroded 'Wealden dome'. Think of the material here being laid down in once shallow sub-tropical seas, imagine numerous bony fish hunted by waters teeming with neoselachian and hybodontiform sharks, if you will. The other thing to know about this Sylvan stretch, is that it is National Trust central, with much of the wooded hills donated and enjoyed by the early pioneers of the organisation. There are a string of properties in this direction that can provide welcome diversion and tramping sustenance.
Oxted is an easy train ride via East Croydon. Tonbridge is lengthy and less easy, with the more economic return via Redhill.
S accompanied me as far as East Croydon and then I delivered myself from Oxted station. I had walked from here when I headed off to collect a gerbil (another story). Today, I went south. Take to Station Road East and head south into Johnsdale and over East Hill and the River Eden. Directly over the road is Old Lane bridleway that looks every bit the ancient hollow. Go with Rockfield Road until you can cross it onto the Greensand Way and bridleway into West Heath. You have options and I resisted the main route in favour of the middle path. This is part of the 140 hectare Limpsfield Common which was donated to the NT in 1972. Exit on Wolf's Hill and into New Road, where you can follow the bridleway.
You will rejoin the Greensand Way, continuing east. By now, you will be familiar with the waymarkers and the occasional Sharpie 'G W'. Continue to the junction of Brick Kiln Lane, where you join another path and bridleway to Briars Cross. Follow Kent Hatch Road. Follow the footpath at the side of the road and rejoin the GW as it enters Limpsfield Chart. Chart or 'chert', 'ceart' and other variations mean 'rough ground' in old speak. The Carpenter's Arms might make a great stop and I debated refreshment at the horse box, north on Moorhouse Road.
Pushing on, cross to Trevereux Road and some tantalising glimpses of views that had been absent thus far, show themselves between the houses. Take the first left into the Surrey Hills National Landscape. You cross Scearn Bank, rejoin the GW and turn uphill abruptly, opposite The Cearne. These place names might be derived from 'muck', 'filth' or 'dung', alternatively a 'nook' or a 'corner'. You can decide which is appropriate but this is where literary reviewer and friend of D. H. Lawrence, Edward Garnett had a home. His wife, Constance, was first to translate Dostoyevsky and Tolstoy, effectively introducing Russian literature to the British public. Bear right to reach the Kent Hatch Road again. Another etymological throwback, 'hatch' indicates an entrance into a forest or a boundary and you do indeed enter Kent and the Kent Downs National Landscape. Leave the road on the footpath-cum-bridleway on the left, with distant views on your right. A memorial to a WWII pilot and one of the 'few', is at this spot. Continue due east across Crockhamhill Common.
Join with the GW to reach Hosey Common Road and go straight up Mariners Hill. I was thinking maybe there was a naval connection but it turns out there is a big old house that shares its name, on the other side. Alternatively, you can loop the southern portion of the hill to see the memorial to Octavia Hill's mother. Otherwise, simply take the bridleway, up and over eastward. I descended to the road but you stick with the contour above Chartwell before descending near the entrance to Winston Churchill's former home. If you drop down to the road earlier, you can walk with the wall finials to visit the cafe.
I was disappointed with the lack of breakfast offering and so I opted for a quick circuit of the splendid gardens. A ginger tabby lounged on some steps, the black swans were grazing on the grass and a French man was plundering the trees of their apples. Once you're done, make your final merge with the GW just north of the entrance, going northeast. You've had your last diversion before going south. Disengage the brain and stick with this general direction. Crossing Hosey Common Lane, takes you into Hosey Common.
As you leave the trees at French Street, your go sharp right and descend on the lane. You then find your way up to Toys Hill and another wooded hill. We are told that the great storm on 1987 (I remember it well) caused much destruction but much of it has been allowed to regenerate. You are regularly encountering some fine old specimens amongst the younger trees. This is the story on the Greensands Ridge; an experiment of planting alongside natural recovery. At the southernmost point, take a little path on your right to find the dedicated trig point before retuning to go sharp northeast. At the car park, you are given more information and I followed the NT red route, hoping for views. I didn't get much until I was just about to leave Scords Wood. There are also good views from the grass.
Be sure to look up at the village of Ide Hill and the highest church in Kent. The path takes you directly up and past the school. I stopped at The Cock Inn for an excellent lunch. I'd only done about 9 miles but it felt a bit more. Take the lane across the green, at the right of the church an on to Ide Hill proper. Octavia's bench is along here. The path parallels the road before joining Wheatsheaf Hill. Continue on the GW and bridleway which switches back a couple of times to continue through Stubbs Wood and on Lady Amsherst's Drive. She was literally fond of driving through here.
From here to the road you receive views of Bough Beech Reservoir, created with the use of the river Eden. Leaving the woods you descend to Bayley's Hill to turn left then right. Beyond Wickhurst Manor, navigate the farm yards to reach Sevenoaks Weald. Walk towards the memorial and continue on the left. Go left of the barn at Panthurst to continue under the Sevenoaks Bypass. Turn immediate left, once through and then traverse the horse field when indicated. I have to say, I had distinctly negative Freek's Farm feelings. The assorted horses and ponies looked like they could have had some attention and at the bottom of the Beechmont Bank, there are a string of dumped vehicles as you travel east.
You emerge the tree tunnel at River Hill, cross carefully and turn left. Take the next steps on the right to join St. Julian Road. Very soon, go through the gate on the left into Knole Park. The grandeur was an enormous surprise. Bear right with the road to follow Chestnut Walk. The trees are seriously impressive with some 300 year old specimens and younger ones planted amongst in-between. The deer park is also an SSSI with excellent beetles. The NT website tells me my visit was incomplete without seeing the fallow deer but incomplete it remains, for now. Turn right at a junction where you can exit back over the road to Carter's Hill. Follow the edge of the horse-jumping field and continue east. Go left on the road and then enter One Tree Hill on right. This is a misnomer. Like many of the other woodlands, I am told bluebells are abundant in Spring. At Rook's Hill, I saw no rooks but there is a viewpoint where I met an enthusiastic German Shepherd at the viewpoint.
Then follows Shingle and Wilmot Hill before the bridleway at Ightham Mote. The estate can be explored on various walks but we continue to Mote Farm and onto the road. Desperate for a wee and half an hour from closing, I headed up the road and right into the National Trust property. It was a shame to simply use the cafe and I'd love to visit again. The bridleway to south of the property is accessible and I followed it back to the road. Go south and leave it on the left into the wonderfully named wood of Fatting Pen. Continue to St Giles Church and to Shipbourne Common. The Chaser sits invitingly on its edge but we continue southeast across the grass.
You have left the GW and I now made a made dash to Tonbridge, running the downhill bits with the knowledge that getting back was likely to be lengthy, On Back Lane, go left then right on the footpath. In Point Wood, turn right and stick to the periphery. Continue on the bridleway over Ightham Road. Go south a little and join the bridleway opposite. At the next opportunity, go left and directly south. After you pass Horns Lodge, you cross the Pen Stream and eventually reach Shipbourne Road.
Shipbourne Road is long and I dithered, trying to figure out buses. Simply walking south is a little dull but you might not be feeling like variation by this late stage. The castle is on the right as you approach the station. One final run at Gatwick, allowed me to get home half an hour quicker.
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