High Weald Drifter
A drizzly start for the first time in ages. I did not find the wet too oppressive but the heat was, This was a-more-lines-on=the-map kind of journey but I'd been meaning to return to make good on a previous attempt further south. The High Weald, we have learnt, is characteristically woody with sandstone outcrops and ridges and amongst the clay, deep, gill-cut valleys. The rocks, always seem to surprise me. This route avoided one single long distance path but includes a few. Likewise, there is no single ridge and while the height may not be considerable, the overall gain proved a satisfying workout. Despite the undulation, the beginning of the walk felt quite enclosed and it wasn't until after Fordcombe that it brightened and the views became apparent. We are in the land of ancient transhumance, a place of 'dens' and old farmsteads. There are more lines to do here and I'll be back and probably in a easterly or westerly direction.
Tunbridge Wells is not massively easy to get to in a timely fashion. Some delays meant that I hit the back-to-school rush-hour, an occurrence I have had the pleasure of enduring before. This makes a dash to another platform impossible. Nevertheless, a cheapish option is to travel by train via Redhill, having changed at Gatwick from Burgess Hill. Another change is made at Tonbridge. The ticket is cheaper but the timing can be exactly the same as a route via London Bridge. Return from East Grinstead was by the 270 bus, a long-feeling but simple and economical trip.
Last time I began at Royal Tunbridge Wells, the common had been mirky and it was again. From either side of the station, head south to Vale Road. Follow the signs to 'The Commons' and cross the London Road to ascend. Take a direct route to Wellingtons Rocks. There are toilets here, which is useful. Top the cricket ground and car park and continue on a path near Bishop's Down until you can cross the roundabout. Cross the grass and bear right to join Bishop's Down Road. Take Manor Road which marked as a no through road. You, however can walk through and cut north to Bishops Down Road. Continue on the parish boundary to Coniston Avenue.
Soon you continue into Hurst Wood where you can explore or stick with the footpath. Join Broomhill Road as it marks the boundary of the National Landscape, to the west. Estate fencing accompanies your steady climb into it, on the footpath on the left. Salomon's House, now a wedding venue is on your right. It was once the residence of a London Mayor. Cross Etherington Hill and carry on. Turn right at the next junction and follow the route of the Tunbridge Wells Circular Walk. Your first glimpses of views show between the trees. Just follow the signs over Stockland Green Road and fairly directly as the path bends north through Sir David's Park, Manor Road, Crundwell Road, past the playground to Holden Corner.
I sat at Holden Pond for a drink when water began in earnest skyward. I hated putting a coat on but soon I found myself with my back against a tree, waiting for it the downpour subside. Take the southern edge of the pond and north with a Chalybeate Spring away to your left. It didn't smell particularly fresh but then this type of spring sometimes doesn't. When Tunbridge Wells became the place to be in the 17th century, Southborough did much of the accommodating to visitors. It had its own waters and these were less zingy but the pull and infrastructure remained towards the larger town. Millions of years before, it was the iguanodon enjoying the environment at High Brooms and much later, neolithic man was camped as Southborough Common, so fashions change. On the corner of Victoria Road and Modest Corner, you can enter the common and explore. I headed towards a chunk called Whortleberry Wood and then back southwest on what is the Wealdway. You will come across a couple of waymarked paths described here.
On a side note, I realise I've been pronouncing 'chalybeate' all wrong, in the same way as I didn't know how to say 'neanderthal' as an eight year old. The chalyb bit comes from the Greek and then the Latin for steel and this is iron country, after all.
Head out and up on Bentham Hill and go left on Stockland Green on the footpath. You are opposite the circular walk you entered on. This time, you turn right until Stockland Green Road. Turn right and left until you reach Speldhurst Hill. Turn right into the village. You can climb the steps to the church and descend to Langton Road. Here, The Dragonfly Farm Cafe did me breakfast but the George & Dragon could suit you also.. Leave Speldhurst on the Wealdway. Follow the fence out of Speldhurst and into Bullingstone.
Turn right on Bullingstone Lane and then take the footpath into the Avery's Wood. This means you turn right at the junction and follow a stream. Climb out of this wooded valley and up to Hickman's Farm and Poundsbridge Hill. Continue with the Wealdway, south on the road. Take the lane through to Fordcombe and its green. There is another opportunity to take a rest at The Chafford Arms. Turn right and then right again on the footpath to get to your first real viewpoint of the day. It was here that the weather coincided with some brightness but things were still very humid. The path then descends, switching to the other side of the hedge. Turn left into Rodger Wood and follow the path around to the north as you go down. At the next junction, turn left to cross Spring Hill.
The path continues through a fishery and over the Medway. At the far end of the substantial footbridge, head away from the river and look for a small gap in the hedge-line ahead of you, just to the left of a pillbox. There are a couple here. Another footbridge to begin to climb another hill to Walters Green Road. Turn left and then right on the next footpath. You a rewarded for a steady climb with more views of ancient farmsteads. Turn right to White Post and then left on Bassetts Lane. Now cross the hill on a bridleway to the left. The path will pass the Top Hill Wood before descending past Hobbs Hill Farm. Once on the road, join the Sussex Border Path, on your right. This follows a tribitury of the Medway called Kent Water and a natural border with East Sussex.
No sooner have we joined this path than we leave it on a northeastern footpath, high on the right, to another ancient timber-framed pile named Prinkham. Rejoin Bassetts Lane and turn left. Be sure to take the second footpath on the right. Behind you is the 15th or 16th century Bassetts Mill. After crossing a broken footbridge over a spring, you now walk through some meadows with more sandstone outcrops on your left and a stream on the right. These are Birchcope Shaw Rocks. Stay in this sandwich until the next crossroads where you take the left. Drop down to Rickwoods Farm and turn right. At the road, descend Mount Noddy and Blowers Hill to pass under the railway at Cowden station.
The footpath on the right follows the track before bearing left through the wood and joining Hartfield Road at Pylegate Farm. There is a little diversion on the other side of the road around a building site before rejoining the route that descends to Jones's Wood. The next right will bring you around a pond and to North Street in Cowden. I was thirsty, out of water and needed a wee and so I stopped at The Fountain Inn. Return to the Sussex Border Path to leave on Spode Lane, to the west. A gradual ascent past the Tudor Waystrode Manor. Ignore distraction until the corner of Liveroxhill Wood, where you take the bridleway on the left. I was approaching what sounded like a one-man daytime rave with an MC. Quite enjoyed it. Veer south to the Marlpit Shaw and the peak of the performance.
South on what seems an old hollow, brings you out at Smithers Lane where you turn right. I'd hoped to leave this road south to cross Mill Wood but I was a bit scared to walk on the driveway to join the bridleway. It seems foolish now as it must be legit. Instead, continue to merge with the Vanguard Way before going south on Shepherds Grove Lane. You pass the updated arts and crafts Gotwick Manor before continuing over Holtye Road. Leave the Vanguard Way and take the footpath right at the next junction to Brooklands. Continue in this direction and say hello to all the horses and ponies at Homestall Stud. Turn right on Homestall Road and take Shovelstrode Lane. This bridleway skirts the farm. You may be accosted, as I was, by two sausage dogs before entering Ashurst and then Fowl Wood. Stay on the bridleway as it becomes Shovelstrode Road. A lady was shouting for her wayward retriever, Barney.
I used Worsted Lane to reach East Grinstead's Lewes Road but you can continue a bit further to merge with it at Woodbury Avenue. It was at this bus stop that I returned from but you could walk right into East Grinstead, if you have the inclination.
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