Elementary

NORMAN'S BAY TO CUCKMERE HAVEN VIA SHINEWATER LAKE, HAMPDEN PARK AND EAST DEAN

A fairweather walker I can sometimes choose to be and Thursday's outlook persuaded me to the coast. Another week and Spring is springing. This is a walk that begins gratuitously on the beach, followed by being mildly urban. Eastbourne and Hampden Park sandwich some watery 'levels' which appear unusually wild within a large settlement. This is Eastbourne Park, a flood management area with limited access. And then on to a lake, under a main road and up to the gorse-gilded voluptuosity of the coastal Downs. The Seven Sister's Country Park complete with Bottoms is seen from its rear and a final turn is made alongside the heavy meanders of the Cuckmere. Once again, I prove to myself that a slight variation of route can make all the difference for a walk with a different perspective. Flinty East Dean is incredibly quaint and away from the main drag, the back of the park gives a closer connection to those ancient sheep-grazed hills. Even the beach was a mad mix of brave birds and large aggregate-movers.

Norman's Bay can be reached via a train change at Brighton and Eastbourne. a regular coastal bus will take you and all the other visitors to the Cuckmere, back to Brighton from Exceat.

From the station, go south on the Coast Road and surprise, surprise, you'll be at the sea. The tide was sufficiently out to walk out on the shingly sand. A cluster of birds clung to the tide line. Giant vehicles were pushing material around on this corner. Go west as far as Pevensey Bay. On your way, there are three Martello towers. Another couple are here on this stretch of Country Park. Naturally, you are also roughly following the line of the England Coast Path but head in at Grenville Road on the Martello Estate. Martello tower 61 sits amongst the 1960s flats on your left. It was once home to pre-raphaelite artist Val Prinsep. Turn left at the Eastbourne Road and cross the road at the footpath marked in the direction of Pevensey Castle. William built his castle within the walls of this Roman 'Saxon Shore' fortress. Just whose coastline is it anyway?

Pressing inland, you will be crossing the East Langney Level and the Langney sewer. The name of the 'Anderita' fort is interpreted as being a latinised word combining the celtic meaning of 'great' and 'ford'. The coast being much closer, this area probably represents a former lagoon. Having crossed the remaining water, I continued by accident by the waterway until I was startled into action by a dead sheep. Be sure to take the path instead that veers west and into Pevensey. Over the level-crossing is the church, a place of worship that every generation has had a hand. The local primary school had just had their morning assembly and were merrily tungling out to the High Street. I fell in. Continue west and then south by the Eastbourne Road to cross back over the track at Westham Station.

Immediately turn right on the unlikely footpath, to spill out onto Mountney Level. A footbridge takes you over the ditch. Stick to this side as you head southwest. You'll spy another footbridge and then one beyond it. From here, you seem less welcome and I had to cross a couple of tied gates to Friday Farm. At the farm, take to the drive and go left into Oak Tree Lane, at the end. Crossing Friday Street and going almost opposite, has you on the bridleway and Shinewater Lane, towards Shinewater Lake.

This lake is a place of recreation, complete with shipping container toilets and cafe. The local special school were industriously playing in the playground while I enjoyed a coffee. Continue in this direction to the edge of the water and go anti-clockwise. Views are limited but the path is easy. I chose to continue by the edge of the lake on the west side, rather than ducking under the Golden Jubilee Way to join the Cuckoo Trail. The second option might be easier under foot but my choice had me closer to the birds. The south part of the park is Hydneye Lake and you turn right at the end to cross under the road with the Willingdon Upper. Join Fletching Road to its end. The cherries were in full blossom. Turn left down Port Road to go left at the junction along Dallington Road. This brings you out at the parade of shops and the roundabout. Cross over to go anti-clockwise and take Mountfield Road. From Brassey Avenue, take Rosebery Avenue and bear left.

You will be opposite the greenery of Hampden Park. You can enter Decoy Wood on your left and through to the far side to emerge by the Decoy Pond. Continue the line to Decoy Drive. Gulls, crows, rooks, geese, ducks and doves were breakfasting. Now go right a little and take Park Road beyond the school. At the junction and to the left a bridleway takes you up hill by the golf course. Be sure to take the path on the left when it is offered. This is waymarked as the 'Jubilee Way 2012' and was originally the '300ft Contour path'. Is is worth walking at this level to enjoy the seaward views as you walk south. Continue round the promontory of Foxholes Brow and follow the footpath until a bridleway appears to take you up hill to cross the Wealdway at Fox holes. You'll see the Shepham Wind Farm over at Polegate. Some tumuli are in the area and this is an ancient trackway. Spot the finger post and gate to go down and south west to Eldon Bottom. Here lies the picturesque ruins of a shepherd's cottage and yard.

Climb the southern slope as the bottom turns this way. I did this at an appropriate juncture, just as a herd of cows began there exploration in my direction. I was the subject of considerable attention from a big black beast for some time from the valley below. Descend to the stile and then climb the next hill obliquely amongst the sheep to Pea Down. You can walk just below the fenceline and the gorse before descending to East Dean.

Cross the stile and then after a way the path between the fences climbs to Elven Lane and turn right. Continue on Michel Dene Road and turn right on the main road. Take Upper Street and then make your way to the green on your left, if you need lunch. I did and it was beer weather.

Otherwise, continue to the corner and then follow the footpath into Hobbs Eares, a hay meadow. The path turns left and up the hill. Continue until some steps lead over a flint wall. From here, you can see out to Belle Tout lighthouse. The sparkling sea from over the Eastbourne Downland was a most surprising and satisfying scene to behold. The sarsen stone monument that can also be seen from this vantage point is to William Charles Campbell who purchased the Crowlink Valley and its ultimate preservation. This the Seven Sisters Country Park and we have freedom to make our own way through this area. Having walked along the edge of the trees, on this line, continue on the faint path to a gate. While it is tempting to curve round further southward, stick firm to the stile at the corner of a hedge at Crowlink. Follow the path through to the bridleway of Crowlink Lane and make your way along Gap Bottom. Now bear right at the obscured but fenced dew pond. Head up hill and west, parallel with the coastline. Gates will allow your passage to the trig at Cliff End. 

Cross the fence and go north now. Go to the edge of the gorse to look out over the estuary. Descend Haven Brow as the path turns left and down to the England Coast Path and the South Downs Way. You are following the Cuckmere back towards Exceat. Many birds can be seen here on these calm waters. As you are at the waterside, you can continue on the permissive path all the way to the bus stop. There is no need to embarrass yourself by running for the bus because they are quite regular.