Wooded, Dim, Blue Goodness of the Weald
Having had this walk in reserve, it was just the day to fill a little space in the east. It required a little pace and light to squeeze between a pair of longer inbound and outbound journeys. It was the equinox and the day has become just long enough and I had also been a bit busy to do any planning. I was grateful. The weather had been and promised to be, delightful and so it was.
Because I hadn't seen my route in a while, I came upon the home of Rudyard Kipling as a bit of a surprise. I've done a bit of reading about him now and although seen as a terrible imperialist, even in his own time, he did have some things to say about Sussex. Although, many view him as a simple racist and white-supremacist, he could never have been described as unworldly. He seems to have had a troubling upbringing, at first in India and then England. As a grown-up, he moved to America, with all kinds of violence, neglect, anger, breakdown and grief into adulthood. Burwash was a refuge and Bateman's his final home with '...no shadows of ancient regrets, stifled miseries, nor any menace.' The author was an enthusiastic motorist but the noticeably rolling, wooded hilltops and repetitive crossing of the Dudwell I navigated by walking.
Heathfield is a bit of a pain to get to but the simplist course of action is to take a train to Lewes and then the 29a bus from the High Street. Return from Robertsbridge is also unfeasibly lengthy with much train variation, the best being via St Leonards or Hastings and Brighton.
From Heathfield, back track to Co-op and follow the signs north marked Millennium Green. Head for the right-hand corner. I crossed it west, instead and took an unnecessary circuitous route which did allow me to look down onto the former track. The place was opened for access in 2000 and, if I'm frank, is looking a little worse for wear. The tunnel of the former Cuckoo railway line is shut and I don't remember any grand entrance or notice board. Nevertheless, while the west of the line is largely privately owned, there is some access for woodland walks and the line makes a convenient venture north. South of this tunnel is the start of the Cuckoo Trail that goes to Polegate. Go north and some time after the railway bridge, the path moves to the west embankment where you continue to a second at the junction with Sussex Diamond Way.
Now turn right and cross Marklye Lane at the farm. Continue on the footpath to Newick Lane. Turn left a little and right on the footpath at Newick Farm. After this, the hazy views opened up in the gently warmth of the morning sunshine. Over a footbridge, the path forks left at Blackdown Cottage. The route passes disconcertingly close to an outhouse and immediately bears left to follow the line of a stream. Be sure to take the stile on the right, soon after.
Continue over a junction to Prior's Farm. I confess to getting a little lost here as at least one path through here no longer exists. I'd advise to go right at the fingerpost to Maremma Lodge. Going left had me wandering amongst the suspicious cats and the barking farm dogs. A helpful homeowner pointed me through to the woods to the left of the lodge, over a footbridge and out onto Street End Lane. Turn right and then take the next footpath on the left. This takes you into Blacksand Wood. Bear right on the edge and continue into Swife Wood at Olives Farm. The path has been adjusted to avoid the property and the lakes. Immediately after the footbridge, fork left and up to Swife Lane. Crossing it and then the Burwash Road, turn right and take the byway called Stream Lane, through Home Farm and Milkhurst Wood. To your right is Tottingworth Park. Oak Hall, once the home to Harry Oakes, the wealthy but murdered gold miner is said to have hidden a stash hereabouts, yet to be found. Continue with the byway, left at the fork and out and gently down amongst more vistas, to cross the River Dudwell.
The route continues south and up to Greenwoods Lane. Turn right and take the footpath up to the right of the sail-less Blackdown Windmill. This mill, also called the better name of 'Cherry Clack', has followed the oft-told story of windmills, having been made in Kent, transported, sails sold for firewood, become a grain silo, restored, had stones from Polegate and sweeps returned. Its story continues. Turn right on Mill Lane and take the next footpath on the left. This will bring you out of Forest Lane where you should follow it east. This becomes a bridleway and beyond Watkins Down Farmhouse, enters the Dallington Forest Estate. You will descend to the Willgford Stream and pass Glazier's Forge.
Turn right onto the footpath going north at the next junction. The path merges with the bridleway before Willingford Farm. The Dudwell is off to your left and over the Willingford Lane, you are surrounded by the remants of forestry and the iron industry. All about are forges, pond bays and evidence of smelting. The footpath draws you closer to the river and continuing north, with it a little boggy underfoot, you arrive at Bateman's. There are woodland trails to explore but entrance to the garden requires payment. You can go right after the mill pond and bear left on the road over the Dudwell to the front entrance. You could push on to Burwash for a lunch stop. Hunger hit and I took the driveway to the car park to make use of the toilets and get food at the Mulberry Tea Room. You can visit the house and water mill that Kipling converted to power his final home. Take Bateman's Lane east, opposite the front entrance and admire the big tree. At the next footpath on the left, follow its line up and on to Burwash High Street. There are more eating options here. Turn right, pass the Kipling statue and enter the churchyard.
Go south of the church and follow the line of the hill east. Go right at the fork, to obliquely descend the hill into the damp valley. Without acknowledging it, I joined the bridleway near Tott Wood but it is also legitimate to continue to the junction further south. Bear north and continue on the footpath to Borders Farm. Left at the lane will take you to Borders Lane and turning right to just beyond the road, switch back south and down passed an impressive timber-framed house. The path is a little sketchy because of earth-moving farm activity but follow the signs when given, to cross the Dudwell again. A little diversion will have you continue to the oast houses of Fontridge Manor and out on the lane. Take the footpath on the bend to go down to the footbridge and up to Ludpit Lane. Cross this at Willard's Hill, where there are sheep.
Now continue taking the eastward line, bearing south when choices are presented until you hit the railway track. Go south to Robertsbridge Station and make your own way home.
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