Hill for Leather
Using a day off, with the promise of better weather, I took a walk to the North Downs on a Tuesday and rather perversely started in a place that threatened to submerge me a few weeks back. The cycle route 21 has a flooding diversion which maybe I hadn't seen in the darkness. This week, I walked the first part in relative daylight, things were different and on the whole, drier. The Seasons are turning and the illusion of Winter stillness has given way to the vigour and emprettiment of daffodil hosts, budding trees and frenetic nest-building animal-life. Blossom and catkins, courtship ritual and even the first bluebells are livening up the hedgerows, lakes and woodland floors. For some undue significance, 1910, or thereabouts, appears to be a key date. I mention this as it seems, in retrospect, the date of many of the things I have come across on the walk.
For those used to the South Downs, the North is formed of the same geology but to walk them is a different prospect. The 'scarp and dip' are reversed and the vegetation is, at times, feels thicker with pine and yew. Sometimes, you are robbed of opportunity when the path can be more enclosed and majestic views, when available on this walk, are largely to the south. There is a stately rather than rural feel to the proceedings and there is little getting away from the voice of the M25 as it herald the approach to the Capital. The North Downs has its fair share of ancient earthworks and long-trodden roadways but the line of visible fortifications on these hills are often from more recent times. Worries of paranoid military inferiority seem to cry louder from the slopes than those of sheep and cattle. I present then a mix of lake, defensive mobilisation, heath and river-cut hill.
Redhill is made in 40 minutes via Gatwick or Three Bridges, on the train from Burgess Hill but Leatherhead is slower on a cheaper ticket, by way of an extra change at Dorking and walk to Dorking Deepdene.
From the west of Redhill station, go back on Redstone Hill and under the railway bridge. Cross Noke Drive and climb the steps towards The Home Cottage to take Cavendish Road. Traverse the Quarry Line at the end of Cavendish Road and follow the footpath and route 21 cycle route into an area collectively known as Nutfield Marshes. The reserve comprises a series wetland sites - The Moors, Spynes Mere, Holmethorpe Lagoons and Mercer Country Park. Much of it is inaccessible. Today, follow the footpath along the Redhill Brook beyond the hum of the first Patteson Court Landfill Gas Plant to bear left on the diversion. Between the bullrushes and first ponds, you make you way back to the mainline. I paused, a coot approached with determination and a rodent scurried busily and confidently with rodent jobs, at the water's edge. I say rodent because, harbouring doubts, I've now descended a rabbit hole (if that can be done) to read about the UK species of mice and voles that are available.
At the junction, you can ascend the steps for a view of the landfill site or continue now between the Lagoons. Originally sandpits, the fine material extracted was suitable for making television screens, amongst other things. There are signs that this area is no longer managed by Surrey Wildlife Trust but the Great Crested Grebe displaying themselves, didn't seem to mind, either way.
Take the Nutfield Road north at the junction and before Mercer's Lake, as far as All Saints Church where you can bear right on Southcote Road. Almost opposite, take the cut through to Merstham Recreation Ground on the right and Albury Manor, via the path passing the football ground, going left. The remains of the medieval double moated site give little suggestion of the prestigious farm or manor of the de Paselle family. Cross the grass and continue on Bletchingly Close to enter another recreation ground. At the far end, turn left to join Malmstone Avenue and go under the railway bridge. The footpath will take you over Merstham Station and the Redhill Line and onto Station Road North. You can cut through on the left to the High Street but I continued to the junction with Old Mill Lane, past the Old Fire Station and the Old School. Turn left and then cross onto Quality Street, opposite The Feathers.
Now, follow the signs on the Pilgrims and North Downs Way. The footpath crosses the Reigate Golf Course and emerges at Rocky Lane. Follow this carefully right and continue on the bridleway towards the Royal Alexandra & Albert School. Once a post conquest deer park, Gatton Park describes both the free to access, 'Capability' Brown landscaped parkland and the Edwardian, Gatton Trust managed gardens. The latter require admission on particular open days.
Sir James Colebrooke commissioned Brown to transform Gatton Park into a classic English ‘natural’ landscape. The main lake was greatly expanded and the tributary lakes reshaped to include one of his trademark serpentine canals. The work was completed in 1768. Gatton Park and the house were later owned by Sir Jeremiah Colman, of mustard fame, in 1888. He made use of the glasshouses and became a global authority on orchids. Colman’s additions to the park include the Japanese garden, the rock garden, the pleasure gardens and the parterre.
At the Millennium Stones, a modern stone circle created by sculptor Richard Kindersley to mark the double millennium, leave the NDW and bear left with the Hop Garden Pond on your left. The megaliths are Caithness stone, selected from a quarry in Thurso and enscribed with text. The similarity to concrete is not incidental as it was this material that undercut the once booming quarries in Scotland. The sheep sat in contrasting softness amongst the slabs. At Nut Wood, enter it and follow the path up the hill to the bench. Here I stopped for a drink and to ponder the flush of green and early reveals of flowering bluebells. Rejoin the NDW and cross Wray Lane.
This is Reigate Hill and I proper stopped for coffee and flapjack at the cafe and toilets. The sun began to show itself and the views apropriately began to open up. You now cross the first reinforced concrete footbridge in the UK of 1910, marvel at this, if materials are your thing. Next is Reigate Fort on your left. One of 13 mobilisation centres from the 1890s. Take some time to examine the magazine and casemates. The sky was still a bit overcast to thoroghly enjoy the views. On your exit, you pass the Margery water tower, flanked by the transmitters. Vey quickly you are on the WWII bomber crash site with a view courtesy of the area cleared by the impact. Pillboxes are also north and south of this track.
Real views are revealed at the Inglis Memorial, all the more satisfying as it is a place I'd entirely missed on a previous walk. This was once commonly known as the Queen's Park Fountain. Here I met another lady who walks, trying to make a decision about where to go. In the end she decided to go wherever the dogs took her, a wise decision. Leave the NDW and go north at the 'Queens Park' sign and the next opportunity. Margery Wood Lane will take you over the M25 to Margery Wood. I see now I could have continued on the NDW and crossed a little further up to walk through this but no matter. Turn left at the car park and the far side of the wood to follow the bridleway crossing Margery Grove. Turn right to the Tolkeinian-sounding Mogador. Actually derived from the family name and land of Richard Maggot. North on the bridleway, will take you near to the Pig Trap site, past the Sportsman Pub to the access land of Banstead Commons (No pigs were trapped). This pub is said to be one of Henry VIII's hunting lodges. The heath on the 'dip' slope of the North Downs is acid chalk grassland with mixed woodland and is looked after by the Banstead Common's Conservators. Saved from modern development, the golf course once was home to Romano-British on Chussex Plain and by chance, the SNCI of the heath is home to protected Roman snails. There also appears to be an entertaining controversy regarding the removal of some long-standing benches used by the pub and visitors. I'm calling it Benchgate.
Swiftly onward, follow the edge of The Sportsman Field before the track veers northwestward towards the edge of the trees and a path known as The Gallops. Follow the edge north and take the next path through the trees on your left. Continue on this line, up the hill towards the earthworks of some old enclosures and a hedgeline that obscures a sailless windmill. I missed Tadworth mill and did a full loop to try and get a better look. It is privately owned. Now cut through to cross Mill Road and traverse the Green for lunch at the Duke's Head on the Dorking Road. A warm welcome was had.
Return to the road and go south, bearing right at the Blue Anchor. Take the footpath through to New Road and join a path to the righ of the houses that merges with a bridleway. Follow the natural curve through to the open space that represents another enclosure. Cross this obliquely and emerge at the Mere Pond at Walton on the Hill. Go down to the water's edge and then go north to join the footpath round the edge of the Heath and past The Bell and bear left to leave west. Join the Hurst Road and then leave on the bridleway alonside the paddocks of the pony club. This long path takes you under the M25 to continue on the footpath into Headley, by way of the churchyard. The font appears to be in its own house, out here. Go north on Church Lane and take the path on the left up Oyster Hill to the trig. There are no views from this wooded hill and it is strictly for trig-bagging. Nevertheless, I imagine in the carpet of bluebells, the pillar will look stunning.
Return to the junction and follow Slough Lane, with no shortage of cyclists. A footpath leads off Langley Lane for views south of Nower Wood. Cross Mill Way to follow the path west by Cherkley Wood, on the southernmost bridleway. Persistence will bring you out onto The Gallops on White Hill's access land. You can bag another trig at it's finale. Otherwise, head out on the southwest corner and down to a viewpoint amongst the yews. Not being entirely sure this was the location marked on the National Trust map, I continued a little further but, yes, the small clearing is all you're getting. Return back up to join the Box Hill Hike and footpath slowly bearing west and down to Mickleham. You pass the distinctive church that has Saxon origins and interesting features of 'leper squints' and 'weeping chancels'.
Last bit is to follow the Old London Road north, cross the bypass and the footbridge to follow the Mole into Norbury Park. The footpath roughly follows the western bank and merges with the Mole Gap Trail as it dives under Young Street after the car park. Take the line over Thorncroft Drive and the direct route beside the leisure centre and cricket club, to walk alongside the railtrack. You can't miss the imposing Leatherhead pumping station on Guildford Road. Hug the track over Station and Randalls Road to get to the Station.
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